Thursday, 8 May 2014

Preparation For The Met: Zac Posen Pre-Fall 2014

“The American couturier Charles James viewed the female form as an armature on which to build his highly sculptural pieces. To give strength and shape to the luxurious fabrics he favored, often underpinned them with a framework of millinery wire and buckram for bombast. Though his dresses weighed up to eighteen pounds, his technical prowess ensured that the wearer moved as gracefully as a ballerina.” 

It also could apply to Zac Posen who, as a designer unwaveringly committed to his particular vision of outsize glamour and silhouette, is poised to be the 'James' of his generation. 

So this spring when the Costume Institute celebrates “Charles James: Beyond Fashion” (from May 8rd to August 10th, 2014) with the annual opening-night gala view days ago, you better bet Posen will be ready with dresses. “This is in preparation for the Met,” the designer said with a smile during his pre-fall 2014 presentation when a model swanned out wearing a satin dove-gray confection. It was strapless with goodness only knows what kind of interior scaffolding holding it close to the body, tucked to the waist and then, whoosh, out in waves of fabric that skimmed so elegantly along the floor the model may as well have been on a hovercraft. As if this weren’t enough, Posen inserted undulations of a slightly darker fabric to add texture and tone. Another dress with an exaggerated ball skirt was made entirely of embroidered organza.

Not everything was quite so dramatic though Posen did find a way to dramatize a white cotton poplin shirt with three tiers of fabric cascading down the back. He used a menswear-inspired gray flannel for a long-sleeved day dress with a cocoon-like cape, and a slim tulip skirt was made in a python-patterned jacquard. For anyone going to the Met, it’d be a fitting look for the morning after.

Some Met Gala 2014 Moments ...

 Karen Elson wears a Zac Posen powder pink satin duchess ball gown 
at the 'Charles James: Beyond Fashion' opening gala
at the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Dita Von Teese wears a Zac Posen skin and red duchess gown 
at the 'Charles James: Beyond Fashion' opening gala,
Metropolitan Museum Of Art

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories  

Photo Credit/Source: The House of  Zac Posen  

More To Love ...
 'VIONNET Spring 2014 Demi-Couture'

There are two ways to approach the task Hussein Chalayan accepted when he signed on to produce a demi-couture collection for Goga Ashkenazi's Vionnet.

“Chalayan is one of the most creative and provocative designers working in fashion today”, states Ashkenazi. “I have always been intrigued by his conceptual approach and the fearless way his work travels outside the traditional confines of fashion. It is an honor for me to work with someone I admire so much. I know he will bring something special to Vionnet’s Demi-Couture collection”.

The Beautiful Sound of Silence - From the sparkling dew of a Spring dawn to a garden in bountiful bloom, GEORGES HOBEIKA’s Spring/Summer 2014 Haute Couture collection envisions nature’s gorgeous harmony.

Another 'Throwback' to Paris Haute Couture with some wonderful backstage moments on Giambattista Valli Spring/Summer 2014 Haute Couture.

Throwback to Paris Haute Couture with some of my backstage moments on VALENTINO Spring/Summer 2014 Haute Couture.

The Stéphane Rolland's Haute Couture collection, for Spring/Summer 2014, is a real sunset. A warm color palette, from orange mango to yellow, mixed with tangerine, saffron and a touch of black and white. The models' silhouette is wrapped in garments that resemble sculptures without ever appearing rigid.

'ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER Spring 2014 Couture'

Alexandre Vauthier pumped up the artistic side of his Spring/Summer 2014 Couture collection. Braided leather added edge and texture to his body-hugging looks, while macramé tops and dresses — some were entirely knotted from hand-woven ropes — gave off an ethnic flair. Alexander Vauthier is somewhat beach-bound, giving surf gear a sleek revamp, sans a pair of sunglasses or a neon bikini in sight.

'Promise Of Spring - ELIE SAAb Spring 2014 Couture'

INSPIRED by the work of Sir Lawrence Alma-Tadema, the nineteenth-century Dutch artist painted scenes from the Roman Empire. His subjects always seemed to be reclining amid marble statuary, and there was a good chance that the Mediterranean Sea was shimmering in the background.

'The Cambon Club | CHANEL Spring 2014 Couture'

Minimalist staging set the tone for the Chanel Spring/Summer 2014 Haute Couture show. Beneath the domed glass ceiling of the Grand Palais, a stage consisting of glowing white walls and polished steel panels revealed a large staircase from which models emerged at the show’s opening.

'ARMANI Prive´Spring 2014 Couture'

The fashion proceedings, which you see here, were centered on two of Giorgio Armani’s career-long themes: his interest in Asian cultures, filtered through his deep love of early black-and-white movies. Both influences were apparent in almost everything he showed.

'Zuhair Murad Spring 2014 Couture'

Inspirations straight from Garden Eden, the mystical garden segment of Zuhair Murad's Spring/Summer 2014 Couture collection overall contained a multitude of camellias, roses, peonies, gentian, and more, all shimmering atop gowns, jumpsuits, and cocktail frocks.

'Bejeweled Impact by Giambattista Valli Spring 2014 Couture'

Most outstanding: a beautiful strapless dress with a pale ivory whoosh of tulle skirt and a pale pink bodice with a veiled flower embroidery, anchored with a deep black ribbon, tied in a bow.

Some days before Paris Haute Couture Week,  I relished an exceptional couture moment with Albrecht Ollendiek in his Frankfurt based haute couture showroom. A very private appointment in a very private space of haute couture - Saalgasse 10, Frankfurt. So excited, because Albrecht is one of my favourite couturiers since more than 15 years and his annual couture shows at Schlosshotel Kronberg are renomed as a fashionable highlight in the Rhein-Main area.

'Ethereal Haute Couture by VALENTINO'

The design duo of the moment,  Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took their inspiration for the VALENTINO Spring 2014 Haute Couture from "the most fantastical Italian opera possible". They took us in a "beyond exquisite" embroidered flora and fauna - Garden of Eden - the runway was a special hand painted catwalk, painted by the Roman operatic house.

'3-D Floral Sequins by DIOR Spring 2014 Couture'

When Raf Simons arrived at Christian Dior nearly two years ago, he had to personally meet every single member of the ateliers who painstakingly labor to create things of such lyrical beauty that oftentimes it barely looks like a human hand has ever touched them. Flash ahead to this week, and Simons used his exquisite spring 2014 couture to honor all that les petites mains do at Dior.

'Atelier Versace Spring 2014 Couture'

"A juxtaposition of glamour and mystery, with cinched-in poise meeting the fluidity and provocation of Grace Jones. Different ways with draping: sculpted and controlled to highlight the lines of sleek tailoring, or liberated and sensual for fluid silk jersey dresses."

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