Last season, Posen showed his fall collection at a salon in the Plaza, but this year he presented in a pared down and rather gritty industrial space in west Chelsea. Zac Posen Spring 2014 is an ultra-romantic collection based on soft, undulating curves and lush, sculptural volumes. Plays of transparency, lightness and movement and pale florals draw from the gardens of Impressionism.
"The collection invokes a romantic femininity with a touch of whimsy. A manipulation of emotional textures, a layering of prints, and tonalities of color within a single piece evoke a modern-day Sarah Bernardt," said Zac Posen, inspirations out of the 1911 French film La Dame aux Camélias.
Muted dusty florals on floaty, tiered chiffon made for the most ethereal and unabashedly romantic collection. Flutter sleeves, copious ruffles, bias silhouettes, corsetry, and delicate floral prints all evoked a soft romanticism, that, at its best, was simple. A long, bordeaux slip dress with linear, floral embroidery and a butter yellow look with a draped back represented Posen’s strength (as well as the nineties feel that’s been happening elsewhere for spring): flattering the body with womanly, sensual shapes. It’s great to see him show off his skill with more intricate and worked details, absolutely, but while the extra fabric folded at the hips might work as a place to rest one’s hands for a photograph, in real daily (or nightly) life, few women are looking for more bulk there.
Odile Gilbert for Kerastase, gave the models messy yet dramatic updos, and then sprinkled in small flowers to match the gowns, dressed in pale shades of pink, green, and lavender a palette inspired by an arrangement of ombré-colored roses dipped in plastic. (Chloe Norgaard’s grass green hair with lilac flowers was particularly striking.) The makeup by Kabuki for MAC was inspired by ballerinas, which was appropos for this collection, because there were many dresses that wouldn’t have looked out of place accessorized with pointe shoes.
For evening, Art Nouveau influences the collection’s elliptical lines and sensual palette. Cape-sleeved jersey dresses and bias-cut satin gowns are rendered in watercolor shades including eau de nil, celadon, blush, nude and sea foam. The circular tiers of ruffled skirts appear throughout, rendered with both ethereal simplicity and exaggerated volume on strapless evening gowns. Cocktail and day dresses reveal a beguiling, softer dimension of anatomical construction. Mid-calf plissé dresses fall across the body with a fluid, organic drape. Satin corsetry is balanced with light-as-air ruffles on knee-length party dresses. Rich, lemon-colored taffeta is lent a pleasant ease with voluminous sleeves and external pockets.
The silk and taffeta red-carpet gowns further amplify the play on movement and scale. Pale pink silk, gently kissed with white blossoms, is fashioned into wide-leg trousers paired with a halter top for evening and an ultra-full-skirted ball gown. A Sheer, cocoa chiffon evening gown falls to the floor in structured layers of curves and tiers highlighted by silver-blue ribbon. Together, these pieces showcase a graceful femininity and exquisite, architectural construction. Many of his dresses are pleated, knotted, and sewn by hand and, for spring, that lent itself to a few dozen pieces steeped in what felt like a fairy tale.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Runway - Photo credit/Source: Zac Posen
Candids - Photo credit: VOGUE / Photography by Victoria Will
Details - Photo credit: VOGUE / Photography by Gianni Pucci / InDigitalimages
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'Linear silhouettes emphasis being on the shoulders instead of the waist, Posen proposed a series of looks for smart, decadent work-to-play dressing. “She’s unconventional, but she appreciates and loves the historic codes of luxury,” he said of this season’s muse-customer.'