Friday, 3 July 2015

Impressions from Paris Haute Couture

Paris Haute Couture Week will start on Sunday, July 5th to 9th, 2015, Excited to await this fabulous couture event, I'd like to present you a summary of my favourite Haute Couture shows for spring 2015 presented last January, starting with Dior, VALENTINO, ALBRECHT OLLENDIEK, Atelier Versace, ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER, Chanel, ELIE SAAB, LA PERLA Atelier, ARMANI Privé, Giambattista Valli, Maison Margiela by John Galliano - enjoy!

Follow me on Instagram @andreajankeofficial for live-streamed 
Haute Couture updates next week.  

LoL, Andrea

There were beautiful pleated skirts and dresses of dramatically full proportions, striated with different colored ribbons. Guipure lace became a base on which to layer and layer and then layer again with rich encrustations of sequins, which were sometimes mixed with that spongey wool beloved by André Courrèges et al, rendered in a series of short, sixties-esque dresses.

For spring 2015 haute couture Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli are in the mood for love. Their inspiration board was lined with quotes from Shakespeare, bits and pieces of Dante's Inferno, and the paintings of Marc Chagall, hopeless romantics all. Chagall, in particular, captivated them. "He had an incredible life, very hard, but he maintained his optimistic vision," Piccioli said. The painter's Russian ancestry provided a leitmotif for the embellishments that are so central to the designers' aesthetic.

Couture collections by ALBRECHT OLLENDIEK have wonderful titles, such as 'The Black Sheep', 'LA FORÊT SAUVAGE' , 'Fare thee well my Highlands', or here linked to this 'extrait' out of 'La Princesse Bolchevique'. Albrecht's newest Couture 2015 presentation (always held soon before the start of Paris Couture Week in January), presented each November at Schlosshotel Kronberg, entitled  'échappé !' featuring Eveline Hall. Enjoy these three ALBRECHT OLLENDIEK Couture-teaser, a sneak-peek of his creative work!
Now enjoy to follow Ollendiek's couture updates on & Twitter @AOllendiek

'échappé! by ALBRECHT OLLENDIEK Couture 2015

'Fare thee well my Highlands' by ALBRECHT OLLENDIEK Couture 2014


The idea this season, as Donatella Versace put it, was "to go back to the shape of a woman's body, which is curvy." There wasn't a straight line to be found, not on the terrific black tailleurs that opened the show, nor on a trio of the youthful emoji-embroidered minidresses worn with matching knee-high boots, and definitely not on the evening dresses with their swirling arabesque insets of nude mesh.

'ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER Spring 2015 Haute Couture'

In December the Chambre Syndicale awarded Alexandre Vauthier the official haute couture appellation. For a designer, acceptance into what's arguably the most elite of all fashion circles ranks right up there with a royal endorsement in Vauthier's case, of the pop-culture variety. Beyoncé, Kim K., Rihanna, and Heidi Klum remain among the designer's steady patronesses, and one can confidently assume he designs with them in mind.

'Paris Haute Couture | CHANEL Spring 2015 Couture'

One definition of superb haute couture is that it’s the art of making impossibly difficult things seem as if they just poof! happened that way naturally. That’s precisely how Karl Lagerfeld’s spring haute couture was, a pleasingly unforced blooming of Chanel flower ideas set in an artificial hothouse.

'The Vision of Beauty by ELIE SAAB Spring 2015 Couture'

"Like the sun upon the Mediterranean Sea, accents of gold thread embroidery offset a temperate color palette of green, blue, pink and powdered ivory in evening glamour. The ELIE SAAB Spring/Summer 2015 Haute Couture collection expresses the poursuit of a dream in an orchestrian of soft hues scintillating light and an elegance that eludes time." - The House of ELIE SAAB

'LA PERLA Atelier 2015 Haute Couture'

Undress to Impress 

 In January saw luxurious lingerie label La Perla Atelier Spring 2015 Couture reveal a tantalizing glimpse of their breathtaking Inside-Out Spring/Summer 2015 collection in the opulent and intimate salon setting of Paris's Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild. Exploring the notion of ‘what we keep secret and what we reveal’, it represented ‘the underpinnings of the external image’.

'Paris Haute Couture | ARMANI Privé Spring 2015 Couture'

Giorgio Armani designed his Privé collection around a single motif, that of the bamboo plant. It was all over the prints on the daywear (multiple versions on cropped, wide pants), recurred in bugle-beaded embroideries, in Plexiglas neckpieces, in delicate appliqués on organza. The symbolism was primarily meaningful to him, but not because of its Asian associations, he said. 

VALENTINO Fifth Avenue - For the occasion of the opening of the new VALENTINO flagshipstore, 963 Fifth Avenue in New York last August, the Roman couture house presented on December 10th, 2014, for the first time ever an Haute Couture show in NYC, 945 Madison Avenue. Though a fair number of fashion VIPs were over in Tokyo awaiting the Dior Pre-Fall extravaganza, there were still dozens of the industry’s great and good on hand last night at the Madison Avenue building formerly known as the Whitney Museum of American Art. They had come from places near and far to witness the Valentino Sala Bianca Haute Couture show.

Giambattista Vallis inspiration board for his Couture No. 8 presentation this spring 2015 season featured images of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in a pensive mood in the thirties, and then taking a walk in the gardens of the Tuileries in feisty later life juxtaposed with portraits of Janis Joplin, in hippie patchwork and bellbottoms.

Maison Margiela Spring 2015 Couture - You can usually tell how pleased a designer is with his or her collection by their end-of-show appearance. Last Monday in London, John Galliano took his first proud bow since his much talked-about leave from Dior in 2011. Wearing Maison Margiela’s signature white lab coat (his appointment there being another much talked-about incident), he was clearly happy to be back and rightfully pleased with his first couture collection for the house.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: Courtesy of the Brands

Thursday, 2 July 2015

Column Dresses by VIONNET Paris

According to the press notes at the show, the Vionnet spring 2015 collection was inspired by curves and by dancing. That's the thing about semiotics, though: To each her own! An alternative reading of Goga Ashkenazi's latest outing for the label was vestal virgins circa 2500 A.D. attending a postapocalyptic prom. That seemed as coherent a logic as any for this rather daffy group of clothes, what with the gartered bodysuits and sheer, floor-sweeping overskirts, plissé gowns worn with backpacks, and feral leathers and capes.

The plissé and the Grecian draping were a nod to Madeleine Vionnet, of course, and she would have had no trouble identifying her handwriting in a simple column dress of draped nude and ivory silk, or in the bone white draped frock with jewelry embellishment modeled at the close of the show by Saskia de Brauw. She might even have nodded in recognition at a micro-mini plissé dress an ace look for a would-be modern Artemis. (Ashkenazi herself seemed to be vibrating on that wavelength: The song that played over the final défilé was Björk's classic "Hunter.") There were other nice pieces scattered throughout the fabrics here were choice, and it was hard not to like most of them but the button-down-plus-bubble-skirt and bodysuit-plus-anything propositions were a seriously hard sell. Ashkenazi appears to want to update the Vionnet formula, make it seem aggressively modern; the trouble with that is, Madeleine Vionnet's ideas are timeless and look modern still. Witness the appeal of the simplest, most signature Vionnet looks here. They point the way forward all the way to the year 2500.

Discover the VIONNET Spring 2015 backstage video at the end of this post - enjoy!  

LoL, Andrea 

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo Credit/Source: The House of VIONNET

More To Love ... 

'LA PERLA Lingerie & Beachwear Summer Sale'

Spring/Summer 2015 beachwear campaign of the Italian lingerie brand LA PERLA, featuring top models Isabel Goulart, Ming XI, and Sigrid Agren. The girls strip down to the new season designs in these sexy images captured by Mert & Marcus with the creative direction of Fabian Baron. See LA PERLA's spring beauties below and click here for LA PERLA Summer Sale with 40% off & free shipping!
LoL, Andrea

Wednesday, 1 July 2015

'Tie Dye' Summer Look by DIOR Beauty

The House of DIOR interprets the Tie Dye spirit for summer from hypnotic jade to sand beige and golden amber, colours change stretch and transform as if saturated by light. Pitched for those sun-filled days, the Tie Dye summer look by the DIOR beauty team is a subtle mélange of colors.

For its summer 2015 look, Dior beauty turns its attention to the tie-dye technique. Colors meld, meet, collide and spread out. Drenched in light, they appear unexpected, unique, and in full bloom. On the lips, Dior Addict Tie Dye lipstick reveals combinations of coral, pink, mauve, and red. The complexion is given a sunny brightness thanks to the four graded and vibrant tones of Diorskin Nude Tan Tie Dye. Eyes dazzle with the lagoon blue, intense jade, sable beige, and delicate amber of the 5 Couleurs palette. On the nails, the grenadine line of the Top Coat Tie Dye provides the finishing touch to this effect of radiant beauty.

A lipstick infused with a second color in its CD-stamped heart. Dior Addict Tie Dye unveils its duos of nuances and textures to tint lips with uniquely graded color: a smoky pink heightened with fuchsia, a coral sealed with red, a brown contrasted with beige, a violet with orange-y warmth, vermillion softened with mauve, and pink set off with pale pink. Diorskin Nude Tan is revisited in a uniquely light and vaporous Tie Dye colorama in which fresh hues sit alongside the softest, subtlest shades. It comes in two harmonies to structure and show off pale or bronzed skin to best effect. This summer, the new translucent red Top Coat Tie Dye creates a graded effect on the nails, whether it's layered or applied alone for a customized manicure.

'Tie Dyes' is an explosion of color, and now it's your turn 

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: The House of DIOR

Spring/Summer 2015 beachwear campaign of the Italian lingerie brand LA PERLA, featuring top models Isabel Goulart, Ming XI, and Sigrid Agren. The girls strip down to the new season designs in these sexy images captured by Mert & Marcus with the creative direction of Fabian Baron. See LA PERLA's spring beauties below and click here for LA PERLA Summer Sale with 40% off & free shipping!
LoL, Andrea

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