Monday, 26 January 2015

Paris Haute Couture | Atelier VERSACE Spring 2015 Couture


Jessica Chastain, Amy Adams, Jane Fonda, Kate Hudson, no other designer dressed as many boldfacers as Donatella Versace did at the Golden Globes. If last night's Atelier Versace show is anything to go on, DV may score even more red carpet time at the Grammys two Sundays from now. The idea this season, as she put it, was "to go back to the shape of a woman's body, which is curvy." There wasn't a straight line to be found, not on the terrific black tailleurs that opened the show, nor on a trio of the youthful emoji-embroidered minidresses worn with matching knee-high boots, and definitely not on the evening dresses with their swirling arabesque insets of nude mesh.

















The color palette was a bracing mix of black, white, red, and royal blue. And to start, at least, the clothes were remarkably unadorned by couture standards. That meant cut and fit had to count. Versace's experiments with a new, more generous volume seen on dirndl-style skirts and on a dress with a shorter-in-front and longer-in-back hem didn't quite gel. She's much more in her element with a body-hugging silhouette. And hug these clothes certainly did. Think Cher in her Oscar-winning days with an aerodynamic dash of Olympic ice-skater thrown in. The best numbers in this hit-and-miss collection were the most discreet: those black suits with the asymmetrical portrait necklines; one-shoulder jump suits with a slit up a flared leg; a gracefully clingy one-sleeve white gown.

Versace made up for the collection's early absence of beading as the show continued with a jet-embroidered dress so glossy it looked painted on, and a somewhat clunkier rubberized lace halter gown. By the end, Eva Herzigova and Amber Valletta's numbers were more cutout than they were dress. Apart from Kate Hudson, who sat in the front row with mama Goldie Hawn, Hollywood types may look askance at going nearly nude to a big awards show, or anywhere else. The music crowd is a much more freewheeling bunch: They're on a wavelength that Donatella is utterly attuned to. We expect to see multiple Atelier Versace gowns on February 8. 




































Donatella Versace 



Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo Credit/Source: Atelier VERSACE
 Photos by Kim Weston Arnold / Indigitalimages 


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Maison Margiela Spring 2015 Couture - You can usually tell how pleased a designer is with his or her collection by their end-of-show appearance. Last Monday in London, John Galliano took his first proud bow since his much talked-about leave from Dior in 2011. Wearing Maison Margiela’s signature white lab coat (his appointment there being another much talked-about incident), he was clearly happy to be back and rightfully pleased with his first couture collection for the house.






Tuesday, 20 January 2015

The Ethereal Take: VALENTINO S/S 2015 AD-Campaign


For its Spring/Summer 2015 advertisements, Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have chosen new talent Michal Pudelka of Slovakia. This is the photographer’s first international campaign and features an ethereal take on the new collection.















Models Maartje Verhoef, Grace Simmons, Hedvig Palm, Vanessa Moody and Clémentine Deraedt are mermaids posing on the sandy beach, or wood nymphs while lounging in an enchanted forest setting.










Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo Credit/Source: The House of VALENTINO


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Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli are no literalists, though. The techniques they have at their fingertips pristine, crunchy, cutout tablecloth linen, rippling treatments of georgette, mind-blowing embroideries of minute feathers, beads, and crystals have been passed down directly, hand-to-hand, from the master himself, but they’ve been lightened up. So much so, that you can see a good deal of skin these days through the dresses on a Valentino runway.






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