Outside the Emilio Pucci showroom in Milan, Laudomia Pucci was debating what to do with the reams of eye-popping Emilio Pucci fabric (anarchival designs by her father that dates back to 1957) recently seen draping Florence’s octagonal landmark the Baptistery of St. John in the Piazza San Giovanni for the 60th anniversary of the Florentine Center for Italian Fashion. Could she fit all nearly 2,000 square meters in her cantina? she wondered (she’s going to try). Meanwhile, inside the label’s salons, Peter Dundas spoke about "Pucci-fying" the classics in a working wardrobe like Breton stripes, by adding printed arabesque borders to their circumference. “I’m known for my eveningwear now, so I was thinking more about daywear for resort,” said Dundas in front of a mood board filled with fashion images like Brigitte Bardot frolicking in warm-weather playgrounds. Dundas stayed clear of the escapist resort tropes of yesteryear and understands that these days the fashion pack needs clothing for cool urban happenings like the Art Basel Miami Beach and the Istanbul Music Festival.
In this new fashion climate, women will wear the new collection (sixties-inspired cotton coats, trenches, and tight-fitting silk sweaters) immediately in New York, or Paris, or indeed at any given festival Instagram them and then take them on holiday later. The house’s iconic prints were broken up this season with the focus on daisies, and in lieu of taut and sexy looks, there was a sophisticated and fresh ease to the silhouette. A Sardinian rug was the starting point for a fantastic terry-toweling beach dress/cover-up and matching bikini, which reflected the island’s under-the-radar folkloric textiles and the aquamarine tones of the Ionian Sea. Lively looking embroidery was worked over Sangallo eyelet embroidery and geometric-border prints in blue hues that had a Greek slant. “I spend so much time there, it could well be an influence,” said the designer who has a home on the island of Naxos. Simple T-shirt dresses, some floor-length, and a smattering of metallic shift dresses, some with grommet embellishments, completed the frequent-flyers collection.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: The House of Emilio Pucci
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'Peter Dundas has certainly made over Pucci in his own image since he became creative director. Now the house product is all about girls, body-display, going out, dancing, and causing a stir. Noticeably, there is nothing in the slightest medium, moderated, or everyday in this world. ...'