One-part Native American, one part Inuit, one part American Hustle and all of it skimpy, slinky, sexy, ultra-sizzling, slightly seventies stuff. Fashion is always skating on thin ice when it starts naming indigenous peoples as inspiration, one would have to say. But by the time Peter Dundas had whizzed the blankets, ponchos, furs, and cowhides through the blender, thrown in a hip-hop slash rocker sensibility, silver studs, and a pink-brown Emilio Pucci vintage print, well, you could hardly trace the origins if you tried.
Dundas has certainly made over Pucci in his own image since he became creative director. Now the house product is all about girls, body-display, going out, dancing, and causing a stir. Noticeably, there is nothing in the slightest medium, moderated, or everyday in this world. Dresses are either very short, or very long and either way, they’re there to showcase plenty of flesh. Admittedly, there’s chunky outerwear a big, fluffy coat which is patchworked to look like lynx (but definitely isn’t), and beaver-lined parkas (the Inuit influence).
And then, quite cozy blanket-patterned ponchos and cardigan jackets, along with substantial cow-print leathers. Still, an equal wonder is just how Dundas gets away with all this without being tacky. It can’t be easy when you’ve opted to dedicate yourself to a life of putting legs and cleavage on display, but the quality of Dundas’s fabrics, like the papery lamé, with a subtle rendering of the signature Pucci Orchidea print, as well as his exceptional talent for fit, made it all come over as a class act. Under the creative directorship of the Norwegian-American Dundas, the Florentine print house (it’s a palazzo, actually) has gone places which couldn’t possibly have been imagined in the time of its aristocratic founder, Emilio Pucci.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: VOGUE
Photography by
Kevin Tachman; Monica Feudi / FeudiGuaineri; Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages
Aquilano.Rimondi Fall/Winter 2014/15 show during Milan Fashion Week by designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi is rich with detail, fur trim, embroidery, contrast piping and steel rose appliques for an elegant yet totally wearable collection. The overall effect is cocooning, achieved through generous layering, with roomy sweaters or colored fur coats over transparent pleated organza.
No comments:
Post a Comment