There are two ways to approach the task Hussein Chalayan accepted when he signed on to produce a demi-couture collection for Goga Ashkenazi's Vionnet.
“Chalayan is one of the most creative and provocative designers working in fashion today”, states Ashkenazi. “I have always been intrigued by his conceptual approach and the fearless way his work travels outside the traditional confines of fashion. It is an honor for me to work with someone I admire so much. I know he will bring something special to Vionnet’s Demi-Couture collection”.
“I am thrilled and honored to be designing the Demi-Couture collection for Vionnet. The combined elements of Goga Ashkenazi’s creative energy and entrepreneurial approach together with the unparalleled heritage of the house makes this an exciting collaboration for me”, states Hussein Chalayan.
Observe and reinterpret the house's heritage for today or ignore it. It won't come as much of a surprise to those who've followed Chalayan's boundary-pushing career that he said he had opted for the latter path. "There are so many brands that are old, that are being revived," he explained beforehand. "It shouldn't be about revisiting the archives." Fair enough. To move the fashion dial forward, you have to look forward.
Chalayan chose industrial design as a starting point. Spiral staircases, furniture, electric wires it was all laid out on a mood board at a preview. In the past, his conceptual approach extended his reach. Here, the "melting shelves" idea he used to create sculptural shapes fell a bit flat. Meanwhile, dresses in a print and embroidery motif derived from patternmakers' toiles "a comment on dressmaking itself," he called it looked stiff.
Some ideas adapted better to clothing design. The spiral staircases morphed into five-layer techno organza bias-cut dresses with single seams and laser-cut concentric circles in varying degrees of sheerness. Technically accomplished and lovely, they made a connection between Vionnet past and Vionnet future: The bias cut is credited to Madeleine Vionnet. Plissé was another hallmark of the house. Chalayan modernized it by printing only one side of the pleats and combining different kinds sunray, straight, irregular into halter dresses suspended from harness collars embellished with "electrified" beads. Unlike some other parts of the collection, the vibe here was right.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: The House of VIONNET
More Couture To Love ...
The Beautiful Sound of Silence - From the sparkling dew of a Spring dawn to a garden in bountiful bloom, GEORGES HOBEIKA’s Spring/Summer 2014 Haute Couture collection envisions nature’s gorgeous harmony.
Another 'Throwback' to Paris Haute Couture with some wonderful backstage moments on Giambattista Valli Spring/Summer 2014 Haute Couture.
Throwback to Paris Haute Couture with some of my backstage moments on VALENTINO Spring/Summer 2014 Haute Couture.
The Stéphane Rolland's Haute Couture collection, for Spring/Summer 2014, is a real sunset. A warm color palette, from orange mango to yellow, mixed with tangerine, saffron and a touch of black and white. The models' silhouette is wrapped in garments that resemble sculptures without ever appearing rigid.
'ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER Spring 2014 Couture'
'Promise Of Spring - ELIE SAAb Spring 2014 Couture'
'The Cambon Club | CHANEL Spring 2014 Couture'
'ARMANI Prive´Spring 2014 Couture'
'Zuhair Murad Spring 2014 Couture'
'Bejeweled Impact by Giambattista Valli Spring 2014 Couture'
'Ethereal Haute Couture by VALENTINO'
Alexandre Vauthier pumped up the artistic side of his Spring/Summer 2014 Couture collection. Braided leather added edge and texture to his body-hugging looks, while macramé tops and dresses — some were entirely knotted from hand-woven ropes — gave off an ethnic flair. Alexander Vauthier is somewhat beach-bound, giving surf gear a sleek revamp, sans a pair of sunglasses or a neon bikini in sight.
'Promise Of Spring - ELIE SAAb Spring 2014 Couture'
INSPIRED by the work of Sir Lawrence Alma-Tadema, the nineteenth-century Dutch artist painted scenes from the Roman Empire. His subjects always seemed to be reclining amid marble statuary, and there was a good chance that the Mediterranean Sea was shimmering in the background.
'The Cambon Club | CHANEL Spring 2014 Couture'
Minimalist staging set the tone for the Chanel Spring/Summer 2014 Haute Couture show. Beneath the domed glass ceiling of the Grand Palais, a stage consisting of glowing white walls and polished steel panels revealed a large staircase from which models emerged at the show’s opening.
'ARMANI Prive´Spring 2014 Couture'
The fashion proceedings, which you see here, were centered on two of Giorgio Armani’s career-long themes: his interest in Asian cultures, filtered through his deep love of early black-and-white movies. Both influences were apparent in almost everything he showed.
'Zuhair Murad Spring 2014 Couture'
Inspirations straight from Garden Eden, the mystical garden segment of Zuhair Murad's Spring/Summer 2014 Couture collection overall contained a multitude of camellias, roses, peonies, gentian, and more, all shimmering atop gowns, jumpsuits, and cocktail frocks.
'Bejeweled Impact by Giambattista Valli Spring 2014 Couture'
Most outstanding: a beautiful strapless dress with a pale ivory whoosh of tulle skirt and a pale pink bodice with a veiled flower embroidery, anchored with a deep black ribbon, tied in a bow.
Some days before Paris Haute Couture Week, I relished an exceptional couture moment with Albrecht Ollendiek in his Frankfurt based haute couture showroom. A very private appointment in a very private space of haute couture - Saalgasse 10, Frankfurt. So excited, because Albrecht is one of my favourite couturiers since more than 15 years and his annual couture shows at Schlosshotel Kronberg are renomed as a fashionable highlight in the Rhein-Main area.
'Ethereal Haute Couture by VALENTINO'
The design duo of the moment, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took their inspiration for the VALENTINO Spring 2014 Haute Couture from "the most fantastical Italian opera possible". They took us in a "beyond exquisite" embroidered flora and fauna - Garden of Eden - the runway was a special hand painted catwalk, painted by the Roman operatic house.
'3-D Floral Sequins by DIOR Spring 2014 Couture'
When Raf Simons arrived at Christian Dior nearly two years ago, he had to personally meet every single member of the ateliers who painstakingly labor to create things of such lyrical beauty that oftentimes it barely looks like a human hand has ever touched them. Flash ahead to this week, and Simons used his exquisite spring 2014 couture to honor all that les petites mains do at Dior.
'Atelier Versace Spring 2014 Couture'
"A juxtaposition of glamour and mystery, with cinched-in poise meeting the fluidity and provocation of Grace Jones. Different ways with draping: sculpted and controlled to highlight the lines of sleek tailoring, or liberated and sensual for fluid silk jersey dresses."
No comments:
Post a Comment