Aquilano.Rimondi Fall/Winter 2014/15 show during Milan Fashion Week by designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi is rich with detail, fur trim, embroidery, contrast piping and steel rose appliques for an elegant yet totally wearable collection. The overall effect is cocooning, achieved through generous layering, with roomy sweaters or colored fur coats over transparent pleated organza.
Discover the Aquilano.Rimondi F/W 14/15 runway show at the end of this post!“It was Visconti’s historical research we were inspired by,” Rimondi said backstage, moments before the show started, “the sense of realism he created. That’s what we were drawn to: the drama of real life.”
The collection flipped from voluminous opera coats and long lean dresses rendered in a very Deco-esque rose silk jacquard, to brown tweedy tailored pieces, like an oversize and strictly belted jacket with a sloping extended shoulder line, mixed with yet more of their rose leitmotif, now rendered as devoré velvet or bronze fretworked leather, to minks pieced together in Constructivist-like blocking. The Constructivism vibe is getting quite a play here in Milan, as is the notion of a roomy substantial top half, whether it’s a coat or a sweater, starkly contrasted with a sheer skirt. Don’t take it too literally. It’s simply an invitation to think tough, and delicate, this coming fall.
Should you have never seen Luchino Visconti’s haunting/sick/über-stylized classic The Damned, then move it to the very top of your Netflix queue at once. And if you need any further encouragement to do so, then you might want to check out Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi’s paean to the Italian aristocratic auteur that colored their dramatic and darkly lush Aquilano.Rimondi collection. European arthouse cinema of the seventies has cast an eerie shadow over Milan, first at Prada, what with its Teutonic Rainer Werner Fassbinder vibe, and now here at Aquilano.Rimondi, with Visconti’s brooding poeticism the starting point for a collection that swirled together the Art Deco twenties; the louche, decadent seventies; and these designers’ longstanding interest in all things sportif and street.
Click the links to see my favourites out of Aquilano.Rimondi F/W '14/15:
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: VOGUE
Photos by Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages
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'Constructivism by PRADA Fall/Winter 2014/15'
Tons of eminently wearable things to buy, then. On the other hand, there’s the setting, and the performance, and the hinterland of mood to understand. No Prada show proceeds without an art-slash social commentary seeping through the walls. For spring, it was all on the walls the jolly, colorful faces painted by graffiti artists, which were transferred onto the patchworked furs and bags.