Tonight at 6:00 pm (CET) PRADA will live-stream their Fall/Winter 2014/15 collection and at the same time the new chapter of the 'Iconoclast' project, the new store concept at Via Monte Napoleone entitled 'Harlem Renaissance' styled by Edward Enninful, set design by Stefan Beckman and photographed by Emma Summerton, will be reveiled.
Well, let’s step back a bit. Actually, you won’t be able to step back far enough to get a complete idea of what was going on in the Prada show, because the sensational Mexican wall art she’d commissioned to wrap around the walls massive murals of women’s faces don’t show up in the runway pictures. Do you see feminism when you look at these clothes? For Spring/Summer 2014 Miuccia Prada wants you to. Here is a transcript of some of the stream-of-consciousness things she said backstage when bombarded with questions about the girls on her runway.
“I saw them as strong, visible fighters. We need to be fighters in general. There is this debate about women again, and I want to interpret it. My instrument is fashion. I use my instrument to be bold. I had this idea that if you wear clothes so exaggerated and out there, people will look, and then they will listen.” She chuckled. “It’s a sort of trick.” Then she added, “I want to be nasty.”
You can, however, see fragments of those bold, cartoony faces on the bejewelled, bra-implanted coats, dresses, bags, and furs. This, of course, allows you to acquire a piece of art-fashion, (certain to be a value-added future investment, let us add). If tempted, you’ll be speaking-as-you-wear the imagery of six artists, picked from all over the world: El Mac from the United States, Mesa from Spain, Gabriel Specter from Canada, Stinkfish from Colombia, Jeanne Detallante from France (she works in the U.S.), and Pierre Mornet from France. What you say about it is up to you, but bear in mind Mrs. Prada said she was inspired by “the political wall art from Mexican muralists such as Diego Rivera.”
To the clothes, and the leg-warmer-cum-football socks, and the high rubber sport heels: All one hundred percent Prada at her colorful, mashed-up typical self. If she’s hoping this collection will be a catalyst for women to go forth and stir things up, it’ll hardly be in a miserablist way. Her materials vivid primary colors, jarring against pastels and jangling with blinging crystals and encrusted paillettes are certifiably for those who like to be seen (if not heard).
Miuccia Prada tempts all sorts of contradictions in her work. Transposing public art onto private, expensive wardrobes is one of them. Perhaps some will criticize her for that, but then again, that’s what she likes: debate. She’s a designer who wants to hear arguments, and is completely honest in admitting the paradoxical nature of producing fashion. At the end of her on-the-hoof seminar after her show, she laughed that, although she wanted to be “nasty” and “uncommercial,” she ended up with some of the most beautiful dresses she’s ever made. “Eh, the bustier dresses,” she shrugged. The women around her smiled in unison. There was no arguing with that.
Multicolored collaged statement furs there were galore even if the statement is
“I’m wearing fur. It’s spring. And I don’t care!” - Miuccia Prada
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: VOGUE
Photography by Monica Feudi (feudiguaineri.com)
Gianni Pucci (Indigitalimages.com)
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'The news for fall is that Frida Giannini has turned away from after-dark disco-glam and toward the day. “I think it’s important in this time to make real clothes for real women,” she said backstage, wearing a version of one of the looks she’d just shown: a leather, frill-fronted shirt; narrow, boyish pants; and low-heeled Gucci boots.'