Wandering along Via Gesù in Milan-home to Versace’s headquarters, formerly the palazzo home of Gianni Versace, were the city’s finest caliber of festive shoppers, elegantly shod and clutching artfully wrapped panettones, pausing to fortify themselves with a frothy cappuccino in one of the tony bars of the Golden Triangle, the city’s illustrious shopping district. Inside the Italian luxury label’s palazzo, Donatella Versace had seemingly dispatched her holiday gift early, and it was all wrapped in a graphic and modern packet. The good news? If you’ve ever yearned to dress in one her sleek shifts and found the prospect a somewhat challenging one for your figure, well, the Italian house has branched out into a whole new silhouette. Yes ladies, for pre-fall there are A-line skirts and dresses, even at the house of Versace. This huge departure is a big sign that the ever-glamorous designer is continuing to re-create the fabled house: It was a message as welcoming and festive as that first bite of a longed-for mince pie.
For pre-fall, Donatella put forth strong ideas. She wanted it to be “simple and complex, with neat silhouettes that are full of Versace detail.” The daywear results were precisely fitted bold knitwear that traced the body, some with padded shoulders and elbow detailing that heightened the sporty mood rendered in techno yarns and reminiscent of a retro skier in Gstaad (obviously not paired with the label’s new all-in-one stocking stiletto boot combo), tight trousers with lace detailing, and buttery leather shifts, the collection’s framework with patchwork patterns. Versace’s new vision was best illustrated by one look, different-sized houndstooth mixed with animal prints on a fuller dress with bracing red stripes; elsewhere, bonded silk cady created fresh volumes. There was lots of jacquard patchwork too. Enlarged houndstooth and other typically masculine fabrics were reintroduced as prints, at times abstract, like oversize pied de poule in bold hues of cobalt blue and magenta, and worked as mink intarsias on bomber jackets or as patchworks on the rear of leather jackets. Double collars comprised of mink and ribbed fabric on sporty jackets emphasized the duality of the collection and the contemporary Versace lady’s artful balancing act between this world and the classic conception of glamour.
Speaking of which, the collection ended with the house’s optimistic array of gowns what is “essential” is clearly not what motivates the Versace lady some of which appeared to be a homage to that safety-pin frock which propelled a certain Ms. Hurley to global stardom. Naturally as the modern world has moved forward, so has technology, and safety pins have been replaced by staples in this collection. The gold plaques and Swarovski-studded bars decorating those trademark slits left us wondering who will be the first (or the last, as the Liz Hurley legend goes) to dare to bear and become 2015’s breakout star. Form a queue, ladies.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: The House of VERSACE
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Paris Haute Couture Week kick's-off on January 25th, 2015 (until January 29th, 2015) with the VERSACE Spring 2015 Couture presentation ... The Atelier Versace show is the first of the Paris haute couture season, showing Donatella Versace’s clothes which will be hand-made, to measure, for individual customers and delivered to them to wear in fall 2014. “Hot couture!” she purred, as she appraised the extraordinary coming together of a double duchess ball gown skirt and black Lurex corseted bodysuit complete with a gilt metal choker that was about to take to her runway.