Tuesday 28 May 2013

VIONNET Party In Cannes

For the occasion of the 66th Cannes Film Festival, VIONNET opens its doors in a wonderful private resort. Discover the VIONNET Party in Cannes, Goga Ashkenazi, owner and creative director of VIONNET since last year, with her 1st Demi-Couture Spring/Summer 2013, and Fall/Winter 2013/14 collection during this post.  

Love, Andrea


VIONNET Fall/Winter 2013/14

For its first official fashion show on the Parisian calendar this spring, Vionnet presents a vision of modern femininity delineated in bold, confident brushstrokes. Madame Vionnet’s own obsession with Greek draping is a central tenant, revisited on actual clothing construction as well as celebrated in a new print featuring ancient columns and contemporary flash stripes. The brush with antiquity, however, is refracted in a totally modern lens that borrows from the pop art oeuvre of Roy Lichtenstein and puts the woman in center stage.

Heritage shapes are updated this season with a variety of deeply luxurious materials. Yellow kidassia fur and glossy black astrakhan are fused on an intricate coat or collaged together with printed duchesse satin on a short cocktail dress. Reverse sided metal mesh adds a new textural dimension, either on pools of liquid metal on a black or white gown, or on the shoulders of a fox vest or the racer back of a printed lynx vest.

Enjoy the fashion show video at the end of this post, and much more VIONNET To Love!

The House of Vionnet is one that has been resurrected from fashion past and it's found itself in difficulty trying to get to grips with the future. That's because it's a brand that meant something more then, where now houses and fashions themselves have changed so much and the world around them means something different. How do you tackle this? Last season, following the departure of Barbara and Lucia Croce, owner of the reprised label, Goga Ashkenzi, oversaw a design team, but hopped on board half way through. Now this was the output of her vision from the beginning.  

"I'm showing a slightly stronger image. My idea is that women should be walking more proudly. There was a time when there was a demureness and it's almost like they had to hide their strength. What I'm trying to do is something strong and still with a femininity," said Ashkenazi post-show.

And it was strong and defiant in shape, borrowing from the Eighties by way of Ancient Greece for high necks and gladiator belts. Draping was precise to create black folds on suiting from which beneath pealed out mint green. The gladiator-glamazon reference continued with gold - on trousers and there were yellows furs. It had more bite to it than previously but perhaps on occasion a little too much on the directional front. It's going to take a few more seasons, as it has done already, to work out where exactly this is going and how it will and should fit into the fashion landscape. But Ashkenazi comes armed with focus, which is ideal as that's what's needed when it comes to taming fashion ghosts.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessoriesa

Photo credits/Source: The House of VIONNET

More VIONNET To Love ...

1st Demi Couture collection by VIONNET Spring/Summer 2013

"Gorgeous Goga" - Ms. Goga Ashkenazi published in the first Issue of Elle Luxe Italia, December 2012. "A glamorous, adventurous life. From being raised in Kazakhstan to acquiring and becoming creative director of Vionnet, one of the most prestigious fashion houses. For the first time Goga Ashkenazi opens the doors to her new home right in the heart of Milan."

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