Glistening towers of glass shards dotted Carolina Herrera’s runway, suggesting falling water frozen in the glacial Manhattan chill. The decor was a signal to the theme that coursed through the collection like a babbling brook. “It’s all about water,” Mrs. Herrera explained during a preview. “Everything is connected to it.” And indeed, everything was somehow related to that element, from the waves suggested by the panels of pale double-face wool (and even the asymmetric flip of a playful little flounced skirt), to prints of raindrops or crashing sea swell, to flounces of seafoam gazar that made the wearer look like a goddess rising from the sea; to luminous “wet look” matelassé fabrics in moonbeam colors, to the pretty frosting on her models’ eyelashes.
The embroideries continued the theme as literal as a bevy of swans scudding across the water, or as abstract as the amazing tremblant droplets of reflective silver and black that shimmied around a sheath with the print of a stormy sea, or the frivolous little dance dress with a plunging neckline. A photograph on the Herrera mood board of a brace of battling black grouse in a snowy landscape, with their characteristic bright red wattles, inspired her to add a touch of scarlet to many of the looks. It might be a waving inset of red wool on soft gray, or an undulating panel of shiny alligator on a fur stole. En masse and on the runway there was an almost hallucinatory quality to Mrs. Herrera’s watery brand of luxe futurism. But the collection was firmly grounded with stylish flat shoes and boots that continued the layered, wave effect of many of the clothes. “Nothing is related to the past!” she exclaimed, decrying the current seventies revival trend. “Let’s not have any ‘era.’ Let’s go to the future!”
Enjoy the Carolina Herrera Fall/Winter 2015/16 runway show at the end of this post!
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: The House of Herrera
Photos: Mimi Ritzen Crawfor (backstage) / Stefano Masse/Indigitalimages (runway)
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Carolina Herrera promised a “modern garden” setting for her spring collection, “but it won’t be topiary!” she said, laughing. Instead, her models navigated a stage that was planted with towering conical green sculptures suggesting a formal planting of cypress trees a metaphor, perhaps, for a collection that was all about modern structure. “It’s an uncomplicated collection,” said Mrs. Herrera, “very simple lines with important details. It’s very much for now.”