Diane von Furstenberg is obsessed with The Weeknd’s “Earned It,” a single from the Fifty Shades of Grey soundtrack, which was playing on a continuous loop in the fitting studio as she worked on her collection the day before her fall 2015 show. “It’s all about seduction,” Diane explained, an idea that started with Wong Kar Wai’s ravishing 2000 movie In the Mood for Love which also inspired her red-lit Chinoiserie boudoir set with its Chinese screen, and Chantilly lace wallpaper and then became more ... autobiographical.
Sound familiar? Well, this collection is Very Diane. Take those pinstripes, for instance; inspired by the suit that Diane wore when she set off to meet her future husband Barry Diller, spending most of the intercontinental flight applying her make-up and arranging her hair in the ladies’ room so that she would touch down looking perfect and ... seductive.“It’s about the yin and the yang,” Diane explained, “the woman who can be commanding in the boardroom but seductive, and inspiring fantasy. A woman of the world. A femme fatale.”
So pinstripe suits and jersey wrap dresses were spliced with lace insets, and the silhouettes of flocks of swallows (filled in with sheer fabric) fluttered around the hem of sleek wool coats fashioned for glamorous espionage. And those polka-dot hose? Diane again, captured by an unknown paparazzo doing her inimitable jet-set princess thing at Studio 54. (The mini platform-soled Mary Janes that they were worn with had a seventies flavor too.)
There is also a dress named Catherine, in homage to Deneuve, and Diane’s teenage memory of seeing Belle de Jour, in which the actress plays a bored bourgeois wife moonlighting in a brothel (Diane’s then beau and future first husband Prince Egon was horrified that she loved it). “The whole dress you can put in an envelope,” Diane explained, laughing at the memory, and scrunching it up into the palm of her hand.
The print of multicolored speckles on black used for the new “Double Agent” purse (it has an attached clutch that can be unzipped to be used on its own) has a distinctly Memphis Group flavor; that motif was replicated in embroidery, woven into tweed, printed on chiffon, and even worked into an intarsia mink sweater. And the evening dresses were bias slinks of black or scarlet satin and lace like the most luxurious nightgowns perfect for a grand seduction.
Discover the DvF Fall/Winter 2015/16 runway show at the end of this post!
Diane von Furstenberg
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: Diane von Furstenberg
Stills: Photos by ANDREA JANKE @andreajankeofficial via Instagram
Runway: Photos by Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages
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'NYFW | Diane von Furstenberg Spring/Summer 2015'
Diane von Furstenberg’s breezy collection wafted by, as the designer explained during a preview, on the promise of “the Côte d’Azur in the fifties, when it was glamorous!” A time when Picasso and Matisse were friends and rivals, Brigitte Bardot was bringing international attention to the sleepy fishing village of Saint-Tropez, and the young Diane herself was igniting the beaches and corniches of the French Riviera in perfect sandals and leg-baring little shantung shift dresses.