Patchwork, Pattern, Prints by Burberry Prorsum F/W 2015/16

London Fashion Week is running and just before the upcoming Spring/Summer 2016 Burberry Prorsum fashion show today at 1:00 PM (follow my live-stream via Instagram by @AndreaJankeOfficial). I'd like to present you the review of Burberry's Fall/Winter 2015/16 collection, Christopher Bailey was musing on the Burberry trench's status as an heirloom piece, passed down from generation to generation. The notion of posterity seems like something that would come more easily to a parent than a swingle, but it also dovetailed with Bailey's reflectiveness of late. As much as he is enthralled by the pace and change of the wired world, he's happy to slow the merry-go-round. So he's making a conscious effort to create new heirloom pieces.

The collection was titled Patchwork, Pattern and Prints. There was an acute awareness of the hand in the patchwork on a poncho or suede boots, in the whipstitched patches or crocheted inserts on coats, and in the quilting that was inspired by a technique named for Durham, near Bailey's birthplace in East Yorkshire. The mirror-embroideries from the men's collection reappeared in a bodice attached to a fringed skirt or all over a floaty chiffon dress. Inevitably, they brought to mind the trail that hippies followed to India in the '60s. But so did high-waisted, mid-calf smocks in floral patchwork and all the luxuriant fringing (more pappardelle than angel hair). And maybe the echo was even a little bit phoenix-rising Joni Mitchell and her ladies of the canyon. The chanteuse of the day was actually Clare Maguire, once again singing "House of the Rising Sun," adding "My Sweet Lord" to the mix this time round. That kick-started the happy-clappies among the front row's Kate, Cara, Jourdan, Naomi, and Mario.

Enjoy the Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter 2015/16 runway show at the end of this post!

LoL, Andrea

Burberry's Creative Director Christopher Bailey

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Photo Credit/Source: The House of Burberry Prorsum

Photos by Alessandro Garofalo / Indigitalimages

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Lily-Rose Depp As The New Face of CHANEL Eyewear

Making of the eyewear campaign featuring Lily-Rose Depp, the 16-year-old daughter of Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis has been cast as the fashion house's new fall/winter '15/16 campaign star, fronting its new pearl eyewear advert, shot by Karl Lagerfeld. She plays a baby doll "in a world imbued with sweetness and femininity" - there are definitely some Lolita vibes going on here.

"Lily-Rose is stunning, she's a young girl from a new generation with all the qualities of a star," said Lagerfeld. Depp's mother has a long-standing history with Chanel - Paradis has modelled for the label since 1990 and is still a friend of Lagerfeld. She took her daughter to Chanel's Cruise 2016 show in NewYork earlier this year. First, for the American buyers and press who weren't flown out to Salzburg this past December,  Karl et al have reprised the Austrian-inspired Metiers d'Art show in the fair city of New York on March 31, 2015.

Enjoy the making-of video at the end of this post! LoL, Andrea

For more information on the new  CHANEL Eyewear collection,

please click here on Chanel.com 

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Photo Credit/Source: The House of CHANEL

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Elegant Tasseling by LANVIN Fall/Winter 2015/16

The idealism of multiculturalism is rising as a background subject in Paris. How about the multicultural idealism of Alber Elbaz? A Jewish boy, born in North Africa, who studied in Israel, learned his trade in New York, and then rose to become one of today’s central forces of fashion in Paris: No one personifies the sparkling creative insights that arise from a collaged background more than he does. Elbaz doesn’t speak about such complexities he just shows them, and lets the audience tune in. Or not, if you just prefer to enjoy the surfaces.

Gorgeously beautiful and severely militaristic by turns, the staging began with a model, marching out at a clip, her trousers with an officer’s red stripe on the outside leg tucked into tasseled knee-boots, topped off with a navy cropped jacket. That introduced a mood that skimmed swiftly across allusions to the seventies, possibly the Yves Saint Laurent hippie-deluxe era, delved into crazily elegant fringing and tasseling, encompassed strict dresses, and flowing draped jersey tethered with asymmetric leather harnesses.

It didn’t fit any narrative, except the one you might guess at within the framework of Elbaz’s lifetime of experience. Right in the middle there was a striped, hooded djellaba coat Elbaz’s most direct hint that he might be thinking about his North African birthplace (he was born in Casablanca). It went by in an intensely beautiful passage of brown- and gold-flecked dresses styled with startlingly chic russet-dyed fur. Then it was on to a group of plain yet ingeniously flowing dresses, just as successful and designs which, on a second’s reflection, triggered a visual connection with the work of Geoffrey Beene in New York, circa the late eighties.

Alber Elbaz didn’t say a word to explain any of this as he was bombarded with congratulations by the roiling crowd that engulfed him after the show. He just laughed and hugged his way through all the guests, colleagues, and friends who enjoyed what they’d seen. He’d mixed so many impulses: fear of the times, counteracted by flourishes of spontaneous fun; respect for the reality of modern working women; and sensual enjoyment of rich, hippie eclecticism. In dispensing with explanatory press releases or belabored explanations of where his ideas come from, Elbaz is right: What you see and feel about this sequence of clothes hardly needs earnest subtitles. But just as surely, there’s a seam of personal subtexts here, something drawn from Elbaz’s immersion in Yves Saint Laurent (he designed there in the late nineties and early aughts) and from his formative design years at Geoffrey Beene in New York in the eighties. In the end, all that adds up to a complex message of appreciation that crosses national, religious, and political boundaries: the precious value of tolerance.​

Enjoy the LANVIN Fall/Winter '15/16 runway show at the end of this post! LoL, Andrea
 

Backstage-impression with LANVIN's Creative Director Alber Elbaz

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Photo Credit/Source: The House of LANVIN

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