Saturday, 6 September 2014

NYFW | Jason Wu Spring/Summer 2015

If there’s one word which separates the continents of fashion the USA from Europe it’s the term sportswear. Or, rather, it used to. Time has elapsed since New York held the world in thrall with its luxurious, female-centric, unashamedly uncomplicated clothes, whittled to their essentials by Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, and, in his day, Zoran. Sportswear became the fashion code-word for this nothing to do with track and field, let alone rap and Rihanna. Jason Wu is up for a revival of ‘Sportswear’ in its original New York City sense. “It used to mean your daily clothes,” he said before his show. “But in today’s world, there’s no one definition sweatpants can be the new dress!” Then he drew a breath and rethought. “Actually, it’s about the idea of comfort.”

In an environment of chatter where “normcore” has been the most-discussed neologism of the last six months, it makes perfect sense that New York should reclaim its authority over easy, unfussy, practical clothes for women achievers who earn their own living. That’s precisely where Jason Wu went with a collection of skirt suits, pants, shirts and T-shirts and shirt-dresses; all of it elevated with fabric treatments (subtle print, luxurious beading, silk tweed), which New York’s older generation of designers would surely recognize and applaud.

My Instagram ot of the show by @andreajankeofficial

As for what grabbed the audience in the moment? Had to be Wu’s navy blue short-sleeved suede shirt, tucked into excellently cut mannish pants, and with a green crocodile Diane bag swinging from the shoulder. Not the sort of thing that will set Instagram alive with sensational comments but then again, who cares? Desirability comes in the form of straightforwardness and subtlety, too. And as we all know, often the best trophies of fashion are the ones which are the least obvious.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit / Source: VOGUE
Candids: Photos by Taylor Jewell
Runway: Photos by Fabio Iona / Indigitalimages
Instagram by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

More To Love ... 

Hugo Boss in Metzingen, Germany, is nestled between Porsche and Mercedes-Benz in geographical terms, which gives you a sense of the landscape where performance and precision are concerned. “We call it ‘the campus”, said designer Jason Wu, the brand’s newly appointed creative director.  
“There are all these modern glass structures set against lush greenery, and it makes for an amazing tension between nature and architecture. It was important for me to inject that sense of constraint into the collection.”

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