Hugo Boss in Metzingen, Germany, is nestled between Porsche and Mercedes-Benz in geographical terms, which gives you a sense of the landscape where performance and precision are concerned. “We call it ‘the campus”, said designer Jason Wu, the brand’s newly appointed creative director.
“There are all these modern glass structures set against lush greenery, and it makes for an amazing tension between nature and architecture. It was important for me to inject that sense of constraint into the collection.”
If there is anything in fashion comparable to the inner workings of a luxury automobile, then a perfectly tailored suit might be it. Wu drew on the highly skilled hands at the company’s HQ, using made-to-measure service that is usually the reserve of menswear to craft the line of military-inspired outerwear not to mention a great patent leather loafer. The Bauhaus references that showed up in geometric panels along the lapels of strict belted jackets and coats were a natural fit for the German label, showing in New York for the first time. It was also nice to see that very graphic idea interpreted in softer ways too, and one tulle three-quarter-length dress came embroidered with an eye-catching motif.
As someone who is known for a sexy, feminine silhouette, Wu did a good job of mining the sweet spot between a woman and a man’s wardrobe, and the idea that a girl might pair a sequined powder pink dress with a pair of shiny mannish loafers was completely in step with what we been seeing all week. Defining the look and feel of Hugo Boss will be Wu’s biggest challenge in the coming seasons with his first collection he’s shown he can build a framework that resonates with the label’s core without losing a sense of what grounds him as a young American designer.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Souce: VOGUE
Photography by Kim Weston Arnold & Gianni Pucci / Indigitalimages
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'Jason Wu has not one, but two shows this week. His debut collection as creative director of Hugo Boss will hit the runway next Wednesday. Before his own last Friday, he explained that the experience of working for the German company had him thinking about his namesake label's DNA.'