Monday 11 February 2013

Indian Gypsies by Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2013 Couture


“Its about the Indian gypsies,” said Jean Paul Gaultier, “the real ones from Rajasthan.” The designer’s feverish imagination was fired by the memorable vision of an Indian bride being transported to her wedding on an elephant. But it wasn’t just her nuptial finery that inspired him it was the music that accompanied her, which he recognized as classic gitane sounds but were in fact traditional Rajasthani ones. Gaultier soon discovered, of course, that most gypsy travelers had their origins in this part of the world, and so he set out to capture their spirit in his joyous collection.


When he first opened his couture house in 1997, Gaultier hired two seamstresses from the atelier of the legendary Madame Grès. In turn, they taught a new generation the skills of Alix drapery that Gaultier regularly uses in such inventive ways. He opened his show with that painstaking technique used for languid evening gowns in two tones of broad stripes, and later in elaborate brassiere tops (a play on his signature conical falsies bra from the eighties) used to suspend skimpy jersey dresses.

The Rajasthan element registered in the tops inspired by regional men’s dress, with a great fullness of fabric gathered from the yoke, worn with gently flowing pants, as well as in subtle touches like a print that looked like a traditional French toile de Jouy but that represented Indian gods and fauna. He used patchworks of Swarovski crystal panels, Indian brocades, and even a trove of turn-of-the-century beaded purses for full tiered tzigane skirts. And for the sophisticated world traveler he reinvented the backpack lavishly embroidered in jet beads or hand crocheted in boudoir-pink mesh.

Gaultier’s wonderful, singing palette ran the gamut from spice tones of saffron, turmeric, cardamon, and paprika to the brilliant colors of the sari markets.

To the strains of “La Vie En Rose” sung in Hindi, the bride appeared in a vast patchwork crinoline. She raised her skirts, and a quartet of adorable little South Asian girls ran out giggling down the runway in dresses in the dazzling hues of the pigments thrown during the Holi festival hot pink, parrot green, and midnight blue.

And not to miss:  'The Romance Night' -

"... which floated in the air thanks to a suspended installation that displayed spectacular creations", Jean Paul Gaultier for LA PERLA. Love, Andrea

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: © VOGUE
Runway: Photography by © Yannis Vlamos / InDigitalteam / GoRunway
Candids: Photography by © Kevin Tachman

More Gaultier To Love ...

Jean Paul Gaultier - LA PERLA Spring 2013 capsule collection

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