Monday, 30 June 2014

Roksanda Ilincic Fall/Winter 2014/15

Roksanda Ilincic had a great Fall/Winter '14/15 show. She may have felt this by the flock of reporters who literally swarmed her within seconds of her bow, but her audience sensed it a few minutes earlier while watching her industrial, colorful, architectural designs hit the runway. She started off softly. The first looks were subdued, almost monastic-felt dresses that mixed giant panels of navy, bordeaux, sand, and cornflower blue. They were cinched with large metal belts that added an urban and modern sensibility.

Then hemlines and waistlines started getting chopped up into exaggerated, asymmetrical silhouettes, a theme among London designers this season. The same goes for embellishment. Artfully, graphically arranged beads are the new print, and Ilincic’s creations were inspired by the work of American artists Jessica Stockholder and Mel Bochner (known, respectively, for her bright, playful sculptures made of simple cutout shapes, and his blocky and busy word paintings), as well as the jagged landscape and clever use-what-you-can-find construction of Rio de Janeiro’s shantytowns.

All this motivated Ilincic to rework her own rubber and plastic scraps from past collections, cut them into a million different small shapes, and then attach every last one to the front of a cool, long, sleeveless dress, a T-shirt, and a strapless dress that would make an excellent choice for evening. That all this energy was grounded by Nicholas Kirkwood’s pointed-toe tassel loafers and a supersimple pulled-back hairstyle made this collection all the more accessible for real women. Ilincic proved that herself as, before facing said swarm of reporters after the show, she swiped a colorblocked fur coat off the rack and threw it on over her black turtleneck, ready for anything.
For her recent Cruise 2015 presentation four weeks ago Roksanda stated: "My colorblocking is always done in a way that's more like a collage, less about lines." Ilincic said, she is confident betting on blue and burgundy now that she can showcase her complete aesthetic within her first boutique, which was opened recently at 9 Mount Street, London's West End.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: VOGUE
Photography by Kim Weston Arnold (Indigitalimages) & Sonny Vandervelde

More To Love ... 

'Signatures are: Color is one, and it's hard to miss here. Yellow, as bright and pungent as a lemon, cuts through all of the darker pieces and plays nicely with the collection's toylike blue and pink.' 

VERSACE Cruise 2015 Collection

Versace isn’t a house that’s ever prescribed to the notion of an all-black working wardrobe, and their early morning presentation provided a jolt to the senses to rival an energy drink, courtesy of a optimistic mix of lilac (which has been making the rounds the resort season in different interpretations, popping up at Giambattista Valli, ELIE SAAB, ERDEM and Roksanda Ilincic) a rosy strawberry shade and a neon take on chartreuse the house called “lime,” but that could just as easily go by “electric daisy.” If that reference brings to mind the music festival, it is not by accident: this collection played directly into the label’s reputation as a favorite of musicians looking to make a sartorial splash. Many of the looks seemed fit for MTV gilded Medusas dangled, pendant-like from dual-zips on dresses and open-weave cardigan jackets and gazed up, the size of fists, from atop a pair of patent skate shoes.

The silhouettes had a vibrancy too, running from short-and-swinging ‘60s A-line skirts and simple shifts rendered in graphic, printed silks, with subtle references to archival prints. Evening was represented by a black tuxedo and one-shouldered gown, both Swarovski-accented, but there were also standout pieces that were geared towards the everyday errands and appointments for the morning after the party, like technically impressive knits, and oversized parka-style jackets in shimmering, double-faced silk.

The Greek key pattern rematerialized here in a Swarovski crystal and tulle insets circling the hem of a cocktail number and the waist of a smoking jacket. Best of all was a black one-shoulder column dress with a thigh-high slit bordered in thick bands of rhinestones.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: The House of VERSACE

More To Love ...

Naturally, when it comes to the business of owning the night, there’s always a moment for the killer-sexy Versace dress. True to form fitted, micro-short, cut-out and embroidered form it was there, on parade toward the end.

 The elegance and power of the contemporary goddess ...
"A juxtaposition of glamour and mystery, with cinched-in poise meeting the fluidity and provocation of Grace Jones. Different ways with draping: sculpted and controlled to highlight the lines of sleek tailoring, or liberated and sensual for fluid silk jersey dresses."

Stay-tuned for the upcomong Atelier VERSACE Haute Couture show
on 6th July, 2014, in Paris!

LoL, Andrea

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