Recently, Roksanda Ilincic celebrated the opening of her new shop in London’s West End (at 9 Mount Street), and two days later she was in New York preparing to show resort 2015.
“The store was really in the back of my mind when I was designing this collection,” she said at the preview. “It’s really a celebration of all the things that are like signatures for me right now.
So what are these signatures, you ask? Color is one, and it’s hard to miss here. Yellow, as bright and pungent as a lemon, cuts through all of the darker pieces and plays nicely with the collection’s toylike blue and pink. “My colorblocking is always done in a way that’s more like a collage, less about lines,” Ilincic explained. Prepare to be surprised by what her fabrics appear to be versus what they actually are (as per her usual). The speckled print on sweatshirts, dresses, and louche separates looks like a floral or Pollock-y paint splatter, but it’s actually an abstract rendering of melted plastic; a tech-weave could be easily mistaken for a print in pictures, a silk organza reads like denim, and the season’s featherweight jacquard looks more like a much heavier quilt. In a sweatshirt, ball skirt, and simple shift, this jacquard is like a balloon so light it could lift its wearer right off the ground. It is the exact opposite of the dresses that Ilincic did in hand-woven PVC, which are as weighty as chain mail, but much more spectacular than that up close. “Hard and soft, masculine and feminine, sporty and formal,” Ilincic said. “It’s always about the juxtaposition.”
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: The House of Roksanda Ilincic
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