Pollock-y Paintures by Roksanda Ilincic Cruise 2015

Recently, Roksanda Ilincic celebrated the opening of her new shop in London’s West End (at 9 Mount Street), and two days later she was in New York preparing to show resort 2015.  

“The store was really in the back of my mind when I was designing this collection,” she said at the preview. “It’s really a celebration of all the things that are like signatures for me right now.

So what are these signatures, you ask? Color is one, and it’s hard to miss here. Yellow, as bright and pungent as a lemon, cuts through all of the darker pieces and plays nicely with the collection’s toylike blue and pink. “My colorblocking is always done in a way that’s more like a collage, less about lines,” Ilincic explained. Prepare to be surprised by what her fabrics appear to be versus what they actually are (as per her usual). The speckled print on sweatshirts, dresses, and louche separates looks like a floral or Pollock-y paint splatter, but it’s actually an abstract rendering of melted plastic; a tech-weave could be easily mistaken for a print in pictures, a silk organza reads like denim, and the season’s featherweight jacquard looks more like a much heavier quilt. In a sweatshirt, ball skirt, and simple shift, this jacquard is like a balloon so light it could lift its wearer right off the ground. It is the exact opposite of the dresses that Ilincic did in hand-woven PVC, which are as weighty as chain mail, but much more spectacular than that up close. “Hard and soft, masculine and feminine, sporty and formal,” Ilincic said. “It’s always about the juxtaposition.”

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo Credit/Source: The House of Roksanda Ilincic

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Airy Floral Prints by Giambattista Valli Resort 2104

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Grey Gardens' Little Edie was Giambattista Valli's muse for Resort. "I love her eccentricity, her extreme point of view," he said by phone from Paris, where he's preparing his Couture show. Albert Maysles' dotty heroine is a far cry from the European jet-setters who favor Valli's clothes, but if she was an unlikely influence, she was also an inspired one. The collection had a lot of verve, with airy floral prints, one of which came complete with bumblebees, a Jackson Pollock scribble (the artist was an East Ender, too), fluoro-brights, and plenty of Valli's favorite color, red.

Little Edie came through in the scarves tied over the models' scraped-back hair, the dresses over pants ("I don't like women in skirts," she famously said), and dresses and blouses with fluttery capelets built in. The animal-print Birks (the season's hottest shoe) aren't an Edie-ism, but she might've appreciated their irreverence. "Things are more ruleless for Resort," Valli said. He's always been known for his flourishes, but the more he embraces ease, the better his collections get. A T-shirt-and-long-bohemian-skirt combo, worn with those flat garden shoes, was probably the strongest look here. But to be sure, there was a lot of polish in the collection, too. One floral was printed on embroidered organza, and the lace dresses were lined with tulle underskirts. They created extravagant volumes evocative of what he does for Couture.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo credit/Source: VOGUE 

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