The Fendi show opened with a playful touch: Cara Delevingne swishing down the runway in a shapely charcoal wool dress (with the collection’s graphic round shoulder) and a black fox hood, swinging a furry keychain that, on closer inspection, turned out to be a mini Karl Lagerfeld doll fashioned from tufts of fur surely any self-respecting: Bag Boy Karlito, Karl Lagerfeld's funny and fuzzy lookalike!
The collection itself, set to a Philip Glass sound track and against a backdrop of collaged color patches like a Cubist assemblage canvas, was far less antic. The predominantly militaristic feeling of the palette of khaki, black, camouflage green, navy, and griege (admittedly leavened with a very unmartial splash of hot pink), meanwhile, was enhanced by the sinister whirring of air-conditioning drones like miniature spaceships that circled over the crowd.
Lagerfeld opened the show with boldly shaped, horizontally seamed coats and dresses with an effect that he described as “fur escape” tufts of fur sprouting out of those seams as though you had reversed a pelt coat and it was splitting at the joints. There might be an explosion on the shoulder like a horse’s mane, or an asymmetric bristle of fox fronds at the hip. Some of these pieces were further aerated with slices of mesh inset to reveal a shoulder, a flash of calf or even the top of the second-skin boots, high as a pair of old-fashioned stockings.
The idea of randomness that these “fur escapes” suggested was reflected in artful patchworks that mirrored those background wall coverings, and evoked the work of artist Serge Poliakoff, assembled to provide textual interest and continue the house’s signature innovations in using fur as a fabric or embroidery (even to suggest an orchid spray corsage) an effect that looked strong used for bags as well. Random, too, were the dappled paint flecks used as a print on the cloth, leather, and fur itself. Lagerfeld also caught the strong quilting trend of the season, with puffer jackets or gilets in nylon or patent, often used in the layered stories that provided a foil to the bold-silhouette coats and dresses, with lengths that hovered either just above the ankle or high above the knee.
For his finale pieces, Lagerfeld used a print like the constellation in a night sky a motif that was also magically translated in the scattering of aurora borealis crystals embedded in supremely chic sheared dark fur parkas.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: VOGUE
Photograhy by Sonny Vandervelde & Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages
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'The intriguing fabric developments included multidimensional brocades in organic patterns that suggested moss growing over tree bark or underwater algae, corals, and seaweeds, as well as mohair threaded with golden filament in shaded tones of earthy browns, woodland greens, and baked terra-cotta reds.'
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