Friday, 20 September 2013

Graphic Configurations by FENDI Spring/Summer 2014

 "I love to use in a funny way words from the visual web communication world. Very 21st century... ", Karl Lagerfeld


Given his cultural voracity, it’s no wonder that Karl Lagerfeld chose to line the walls of the FENDI venue with panels in different shades of gray. There wasn’t quite fifty of them, but there were plenty of tonal variations. Of course, it could be that Lagerfeld decided that gray’s cool austerity would be the perfect backdrop to his and Silvia Venturini Fendis spring collection, with its endless graphic configurations of organza in pure bright colors orange, cobalt, red mixed with equally constructed (but lightly and deftly so) leather and sheared mink. However, a quick peruse of the show notes reveals that Lagerfeld was interested in the witty use of language in the digital world ... though to be honest, I don’t really have a clue how that exactly manifests itself in this collection.

How that sent the Internet into meltdown, or social media speak, it’s the same thing life now in the digital age. And by invoking the world of the web, Lagerfeld seemed to be asking the question: how does that impact one of the most storied houses in Rome, how do you download all of the global demands on a marque like Fendi and upload them into what the house does in the twenty-first century?

Well,  for one thing, you utilize all those amazing Fendi artisans and have them create such intricate work it would defy even the most high-definition quality camera to spot a single flaw. They’re used to working with myriad furs, of course, and there were some lovely ones here, in what’s emerging as spring’s definitive silhouette, falling into a lean line that finishes mid-calf midi was once the term du jour sheared mink arranged into geometric lines, bands, and panels on organza. And yet the workmanship on that organza was just as impressive, without ever feeling labored, slicing into the degrade red to white tiered panels on a dress, or laser-cutting it into falling flower motifs on tanks and narrow skirts. And there were plenty of great accessories to zoom in on sandals with industrial caged “double” heels, silver purses flurried with multicolored fox fur, and keep zooming in!  super cool furry earrings and stacked cuffs designed by Venturini Fendi’s daughter Delfina Delettrez, working with the house for the very first time.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo credit/Source: Vogue
Runway: Photography by Yannis Vlamos / InDigitalimages
Details: Photography by Gianni Pucci / InDigitalimages

More To Love ...

“I wanted this English rose,” explained Christopher Bailey backstage, “soft and tender. It started with a mood more than a theme something gentle and kind.” The rainfall of rose petals milky custard yellow blushed with pink that tumbled from the skies at the finale of the Burberry Prorsum show said it all.'

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