The rainfall of rose petals milky custard yellow blushed with pink that tumbled from the skies at the finale of the Burberry Prorsum show said it all.“I wanted this English rose,” explained Christopher Bailey backstage, “soft and tender. It started with a mood more than a theme something gentle and kind.”
The wonderful collection, was colored like the tiles in a 1950s suburban dream bathroom soft sky blue, eau de nil, lilac, coral, and lingerie pinks pinks. There was something that suggested the 1950s suburban dream girl in the fluffy knits (as outerwear) and lacy pencil skirts, too. But this was the dream girl next door as painted by pin-up artist Vargas, perhaps, for those Scottish cashmeres with the prim, high necklines were draped in the back like a cocktail frock to reveal swathes of skin, and the skirts in English lace from Nottingham that looked like doilies or antimacassars were shown scandal-sheer over girdle-cut 1940s panties. But, as Christopher promised, the effect was nevertheless “very romantic” and suggestive of “a soft embrace and a cuddle.”
Every woman’s look was shown with the same needle-heeled sandal, anchored with a strip of rubber in strong pink or viridian green. The flat purses were worn in the latest fashion not only clutched, but folded and crushed, too, a styling trick that certainly looks stylish, but of course wouldn’t allow for as much as a lipstick let alone the swansdown powder puff that these clothes are crying out for.
As Christopher pushes the strong fashion message in his collections for Burberry, the house’s iconic raincoats and trenches were transformed into sleek fifties cocktail dresses with necklines draped across the shoulder, cinched with bejeweled “necklace” belts, and that signature Burberry water-resistant cotton was used not only for a trench, but for a pencil skirt with embroidered cutouts, elaborate as an Edwardian Ascot frock. Even the clear plastic “raincoat” bolero in Cara Delevingne’s finale look was lavished with clusters of rhinestones, like so many twinkling diamond brooches.
The voluminous, soft-shoulder outerwear in which he swathed his models hinted at nothing underneath or so suggested Bailey. His time spent brooding on erstwhile inspiration Christine Keeler has clearly left a residual appreciation of subliminal erotica. In the madhouse that swirled around him after the show, Bailey claimed he wanted to celebrate strong women rather than the bloodless wraiths who have often haunted the Burberry catwalk. There was indeed something ample, shapely, generous about the silhouettes here.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo credit/Source: VOGUE
Runway: Photography by Yannis Vlamos / InDigitalimages
Detail: Photography by Marcus Tondo / InDigitalimages
Candid: Burberry Prorsum (iPhone 5s)
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'Celebrating rich British fabrics and expert craftsmanship, the Spring/Summer 2014 runway features intricate English lace and Scottish knitted cashmere in vibrant pastels and soft powdery hues. Discover amazing shots from the House of Burberry via iPhone 5s'