Of course, this being Gucci, the collection was also undeniably luxe. Laser-cut suede. Another oversize tee came in tooled leather. As a counterpoint to the sports references, Frida Giannini looked at the Art Nouveau illustrations of Erté, and the large-scale scrolling flowers, in silk jacquards or Lurex, decorating most of the pieces nearly glowed. Meanwhile, she borrowed the cut and drape of Japanese kimonos for jackets and robe coats. The show's signature look, worn by Bette Franke, married a see-through tee, triangle bra, and track pants with a kimono-sleeve cardigan in an Erté floral.
It’s a different kind of dark disco Gucci glamour Giannini is proposing, though a looser kind of sexy. She quoted the work of Erté, the fashion illustrator of the 1910s, as a source for her shapes, and the inspiration found in stained glass, Art Nouveauer-a windows for the stylized florals she worked into prints and metallic embroideries.
Thinking about Erté’s Eastern influences triggered a revival of harem pants, caftans, and relaxed louche crossover jackets, and a silhouette with an emphasis on the hip. Not that there was any heavily worked historicism about it. A theme of ribbons ran through the sequence, too, tethering provocative tabard tunic dresses to give a flash of flesh as the girls walked past in their multistrapped ribbon-lashed heels. In the mix, she also channeled a Gucci version of the Issey Miyake–like vertical pleating, which is obsessing designers of Giannini’s generation this season. A plissé terra-cotta halter, bound with leather at the neck, is certain to surface as an It dress of the season.
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Top of the Gucci girl’s criteria for buying clothes has to be: “Does it look good in a nightclub?” Even though Frida Giannini began her collection with a sports-mesh sweatshirt and a loose, boxer-shorted one-piece, you didn’t have to look far (you could look straight through the tops, actually, at the black bras and crisscross strapping) to perceive that dancing is the only exercise these clothes might be involved in next summer.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: The House of GUCCI / VOGUE
Photography by Marcus Tondo / InDigitalimages
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