It appears the Roberto Cavalli woman does have downtime from her vamping after all. Judging by today’s dramatic ring of fire that ran the circumference of a circular runway, she’s been kicking back, watching Katniss Everdeen, aka Jennifer Lawrence, and her fantasy gowns in the recent film The Hunger Games: Catching Fire. The hypnotic set infused the venue with a post-apocalyptic atmosphere as Cavalli’s sexy warriors hypnotically marched past. Sure, it was hot for bystanders, but then when isn’t the Italian designer’s collection metaphorically hot?
Discover the Roberto Cavalli F/W '14/15 fashion show at the end of this post!
The unlikely muse for the Roberto Cavalli show was Lee Miller, the beautiful American photographer who seduced le tout Paris at the end of the 1920s. It was more the style of the period than the style of the person that the collection drew on. There were evening gowns that were beaded Art Deco columns. A tweed coat with a huge fox collar had a touch of Zelda about it. And drop-waist dresses that dissolved into fringe recalled a flapper, which Miller most definitely wasn't. So maybe Cavalli recognized something in her character that turned him on. There was preshow talk about a woman who embraces her masculine side by day in tweed and leather, in military or equestrian or bike-inflected clothes and who, at night, becomes a seducer, a conqueror of men.
Those real flickering flames infused the collection’s dégradé prints and color palette with rich reds and burnt ambers worked on mink coats, collars, and swooping gowns. “Fire is energy,” declared Eva Cavalli backstage, and she was correct; the strong hues soared above the label’s trademark swirling patterns, this season hand-painted with lion-heads and fringed riding crops. Marrying the Cavalli woman’s apparent duality, the collection was heavy on outerwear. An opening series of tweed, python, and mink coats, some of which were inspired by military classicism like the addition of smart buckle detailing placed on collars and cuffs, rigorous python trenches, oversize blanket-style capes, and tailored pants with side stripes.
The seductive dark closing looks channeled that other unfettered pioneer with a ferocious will, Lee Miller. A flattering series of twenties- and thirties-inspired flapper frocks were embellished with all manner of drapes, fringes, feathers, and crystals. Petal-shaped hemlines provocatively liberated the wearer’s pins as she navigated the heat, adding just enough sexual allure to ensure the loyal Roberto Cavalli comrades will hunt this collection down.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: VOGUE
Photography by Kevin Tachmann & Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages
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