Wednesday, 13 June 2012

Resort 2013 Collection | VALENTINO


Andy Warhol's portrait paintings line Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli's mood board for Resort. The artist's neon pinks, sky blues, and electric oranges all came together on their show-opening long tulle dress appliquéd with lace flowers, while its silhouette, the high neck, the long sleeves, the full skirt could've belonged to one of his sitters. Nan Kempner, maybe, or Marisa Berenson.

The designers see both the Pop colors and the sixties shapes as antidotes of sorts to our current hard times. The clothes are surely uplifting, not only because they've been constructed to be almost weightless, but also because MG and PP are so focused on their clients' pleasure. The single pantsuit in the collection came in a leopard print, and exquisite guipure lace meant there was little that was workaday about their button-down blouses. Where these clothes will be getting a workout is on the party circuit. One of the first to hit the red carpet will be the black tulle gown with the leather bodice. Warhol, we've no doubt, would've loved it.

What a difference a few months makes, and they must have been especially good ones for Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri. While the duo delved deep into sleek black with a folksy bent for fall, Valentino’s resort finds them in a whole new headspace and a much, much brighter state of mind. The collection is  bursting with pink and lace, pretty beading, and overt expressions of joie de vivre in a nearly breathless celebration of fashion’s whole candy shop of sweet embellishments.

That kind of optimistic exuberance was a hallmark of the haute sixties, of course, and the designers looked to the era to provide a through-line for their perfect party dresses in demure silhouettes. Mrs. Betty Draper would have looked great in a grand tutti-fruitti number, while Mrs. Megan Draper might go for one of the duo’s more modish animal prints.

But don’t take that the wrong way; it wasn’t a retro fest, either. There was real-world appeal in gentle sun-faded florals, in airy peplum tops paired with slim trousers, and in a flock of minutely bead-encrusted short lace dresses. As for the exquisitely embroidered lace on tulle gown, it will truly look stunning on the right Hollywood beauty.

This collection, in all its scope and range, confirmed that, whether in darker times or in near euphoria, MG and PP are especially adept at exploiting the strengths of their Old World atelier. They’ve infused their look with a new attitude, while maintaining the house’s exacting standards and polite good taste.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo: Courtesy of VALENTINO

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1 comment:

トリー バーチ(tory burch) said...

トリーバーチ バッグの可愛いさの一言だけで尽きません、独特なデザインが施され、街中でもって歩いても他人と被る心配は全くないです。素材は高級ものを採用して、抜群な収納力を提供してくれる、多くの荷物をガンガン詰め込んでも平気、旅行の時は大変便利になりました。tory burchは大人の女性のために作ったものです、豪華感がたっぷりある、持っていれば女性の魅力をさらにアップ!

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