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Marc Jacobs’s
resort collection was infused with a spirit of giddy optimism that drew
on uplifting Pop Art color and print, and toyed with playful
proportions that sampled the linear seventies, the puffball eighties,
and the deconstructed nineties, all spun into a uniquely Jacobsian 2013
mix.
The collection brimmed with options from a lean silhouette of skinny crepe dresses in bright, overscale florals, or tunics worn over pants with a gentle, bias flare, to stiffly tailored jackets paired with airy bouffant skirts that had a soupçon of eighties Christian Lacroix to them. Those slender shapes were made in vivid-colored crepe scattered with rose and carnation prints, in eye-popping color combinations such as rich pink on mint or orange on purple worn with chunky platform sandals that enhanced the seventies King’s Road flavor.
Jacobs’s tailored safari jackets and swing coats in glazed cottons or metallic plaids, worn over wide shorts or crop-legged Oxford bags, with their oversize pockets and buttons, had the charming, two-dimensional quality of the clothes for a child’s paper doll, as did the stiff dresses formed of cutout rococo volutes, and the matelot knits spliced with bands of brilliant colored sequins.
There was a dash of Giorgio di Sant’ Angelo in the swirling, multicolored satin jigsaw pieces of a maxi dress, and an upbeat whimsy to Jacobs’s unexpected fabric mixes, purple sequins veiled in green lace, for instance, or a firework sheath of blue and yellow sequins backed in somber black jersey.
Proportions were either oversize or shrunken, polka dots clashed with plaids, and platform sandals were affixed with gumball-sized rhinestones. "Boldness, gaudiness, butterflies, and deli carnations" were the terms being tossed around in the backstage area. Not for team MJ is Resort a season for play-it-safe clothes.
If some of the pieces had the feel of costumes, the stiff A-line dresses with lace overlays come to mind, there were looks here that have serious retail potential. We're talking specifically about the silk crepe dresses that hewed to thirties-by-way-of-the-seventies lines. The most charming of the lot came in a mint green floral with three-quarter puffed sleeves, a keyhole neckline, and a scooped-out back, but there were several versions of them on the mini-runway and even more hanging on the racks.
Jacobs continues to experiment with the layering ideas he started working on for Fall both in New York and in Paris for Louis Vuitton. But whereas his February shows played on Edwardian-meets-Advanced Style silhouettes, the vibe of his sweatshirt over an A-line skirt over flared pants (all covered in florals, by the way) was more youthful, energetic. This three-for-one look just might be the one that takes the trend wide.
The collection brimmed with options from a lean silhouette of skinny crepe dresses in bright, overscale florals, or tunics worn over pants with a gentle, bias flare, to stiffly tailored jackets paired with airy bouffant skirts that had a soupçon of eighties Christian Lacroix to them. Those slender shapes were made in vivid-colored crepe scattered with rose and carnation prints, in eye-popping color combinations such as rich pink on mint or orange on purple worn with chunky platform sandals that enhanced the seventies King’s Road flavor.
Jacobs’s tailored safari jackets and swing coats in glazed cottons or metallic plaids, worn over wide shorts or crop-legged Oxford bags, with their oversize pockets and buttons, had the charming, two-dimensional quality of the clothes for a child’s paper doll, as did the stiff dresses formed of cutout rococo volutes, and the matelot knits spliced with bands of brilliant colored sequins.
There was a dash of Giorgio di Sant’ Angelo in the swirling, multicolored satin jigsaw pieces of a maxi dress, and an upbeat whimsy to Jacobs’s unexpected fabric mixes, purple sequins veiled in green lace, for instance, or a firework sheath of blue and yellow sequins backed in somber black jersey.
Proportions were either oversize or shrunken, polka dots clashed with plaids, and platform sandals were affixed with gumball-sized rhinestones. "Boldness, gaudiness, butterflies, and deli carnations" were the terms being tossed around in the backstage area. Not for team MJ is Resort a season for play-it-safe clothes.
If some of the pieces had the feel of costumes, the stiff A-line dresses with lace overlays come to mind, there were looks here that have serious retail potential. We're talking specifically about the silk crepe dresses that hewed to thirties-by-way-of-the-seventies lines. The most charming of the lot came in a mint green floral with three-quarter puffed sleeves, a keyhole neckline, and a scooped-out back, but there were several versions of them on the mini-runway and even more hanging on the racks.
Jacobs continues to experiment with the layering ideas he started working on for Fall both in New York and in Paris for Louis Vuitton. But whereas his February shows played on Edwardian-meets-Advanced Style silhouettes, the vibe of his sweatshirt over an A-line skirt over flared pants (all covered in florals, by the way) was more youthful, energetic. This three-for-one look just might be the one that takes the trend wide.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photos: Courtesy of Marc Jacobs
Source: VOGUE
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