From sunset to sunrise in one fashion swoop – that was the idea Central Saint Martins-trained Barbara Casasola had in mind for her spring/summer 2015 collection. It played out through warm tones: oranges and reds and then bronze glitter for stretchy micro plisse on svelte-fitting dresses and midi skirts (worn nicely with high necks on top). Sunray pleats fanned out into maxi skirts, torso-hugging knits above them, and there came a continuation of Casasola’s strong and gently oversized tailoring – here sleeveless. Edited and controlled aptly describe this designer’s aesthetic – it doesn’t shout, preferring instead to play quietly in the background. But it was only this last time last year that the Brazilian designer made her on-schedule debut and just back in January that she became the youngest guest designer to show at Pitti, so she’s definitely doing something right, shouting about it or not.
Barbara Casasola looked homeward to her native Brazil this season, seizing on the work of artist Lygia Pape, as well as Oscar Niemeyer's architecture in Brasília, for inspiration. More generally, too, Casasola was summoning a certain Brazilian kind of beachside chic, riffing on swimwear and aiming for a laid-back attitude. The ease of this collection marked a real growth for Casasola, whose clothes can sometimes feel rigorous; this time out, she interpreted her favorite stovepipe dress silhouette in a relaxed way, emphasizing stretchy fabrics and seamless patterning. The best of these came in sunset colors and looked a bit like dress-length maillots.
Casasola also did well with her tailoring, in particular the double-breasted jackets slashed in the back and nonchalantly wrap-belted. But the real highlight here were the metallic pieces, an homage to Pape's luminous thread installations. The material Casasola used was lightweight but densely ribbed, and so-cool tank dresses in olive and silver fit like a second skin. To close the show, the designer sent out metallic singlets worn with matching floor-length plissé skirts a proposition for evening that looked really fresh.
Discover Barbara Casasola's biography & runway show during this post! LoL, Andrea
LONDON-BASED BARBARA CASASOLA COMMENCED HER STUDIES WITH A FOUNDATION COURSE IN FASHION DESIGN AT CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS, LONDON, AND SUBSEQUENTLY ATTENDED ISTITUTO MARANGONI, MILAN, WHERE SHE GRADUATED FIRST IN HER CLASS. ON GRADUATION, SHE WAS HIRED BY ROBERTO CAVALLI IN FLORENCE AS ASSISTANT DESIGNER FOR WOMEN’S WEAR, A POSITION SHE HELD FOR NEARLY THREE YEARS UNTIL SHE MOVED TO PARIS TO CONSULT FOR A NUMBER OF FRENCH FASHION HOUSES. CASASOLA MADE HER CATWALK DEBUT IN SEPTEMBER 2013 DURING LONDON FASHION WEEK AT WHITE CUBE. IN JANUARY 2014, BARBARA WAS AWARDED “GUEST WOMEN’S WEAR DESIGNER” AT PITTI UOMO. CASASOLA'S PRINCIPAL INFLUENCE IS THE UNIVERSAL VISUAL LANGUAGE OF HER NATIVE BRAZIL. PARED-BACK AND SENSUAL THIS UNEXPECTED WORLD INFORMS HER FRESH TAKE ON THE MODERN, INTERNATIONAL, WOMAN.
VOGUE UK, February 2014
"In just two seasons Brazilian born designer Barbara Casasola has cemented herself as a noted named on the London Fashion Week Schedule. Between her debut and second showing, she was invited to be guest designer at Pitti in January and can already list Havery Nichols, Matches and JOSEPH among her stockists ... What she does is sophisticated and elegant, restrained and demure."
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit / Source: The House of Barbara Casasola
Photos by Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages
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