Friday 18 July 2014

Paris Haute Couture | Alexandre Vauthier Fall 2014 Couture

The Alexandre Vauthier couture collection for fall/winter 2014/15 is very urban and a turn towards the real, as compared to his previous collections. Some couturiers send out a wedding gown as their final runway look; Alexandre Vauthier presented a black body-skimming gown that offered quite the peep show from behind. A pearl-embellished band running diagonally across the right cheek functioned as a decorative bridge between the lower back and the upper bum, ostensibly holding the dress together.

Such asset-flaunting bait will prove irresistible to Vauthier's mega-muses: Rihanna, Bey, Kim, Rita. But with this collection, the designer ensured that there was more than enough of his mastery to go around, from a jumpsuit in a laser-cut pony hair that mimicked lace, to crystal-studded leather pants, to a slinky minidress covered in ribbons of python stitched to tulle. Before the show, Vauthier seemed particularly excited about his foray into a print that appeared on a silk parka and high-waisted trousers; no run-of-the-mill geometric motif, this was a reinterpreted archive find from Clerici Tessuto, the century-old Italian fabric house.

It's all too tempting to linger over a one-shouldered dress that sparkled like pomegranate seeds (the 196,000 ruby-red stones required 1,850 hours of Lesage embroidery) at the expense of Vauthier's stellar tailoring straight-edged but not boxy. Patent shin guards unnecessarily accented a few leggy looks, as if he hadn't already offered enough aesthetic armor with a pearl and crystal cardigan (120 hours of embroidery) or a series of plush fox cabans. Of course, the designer knows there will always be an appetite for the Tom Ford school of sexpot, but his point of differentiation his expert eye for fit can get overwhelmed by glam. Vauthier described this collection as "excessively chic," adding a rapid succession of "très" for emphasis. And to the extent that people will be apt to remember that right cheek most of all, this was très true.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: The House of ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER

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After the breathtakingly spectacular environments that Karl Lagerfeld has conceived for CHANEL Couture in recent years who could forget the Chateau de Versailles, the enchanted Mediterranean forest, the derelict antebellum theater (not to mention the CHANEL supermarket for this fall’s ready to wear!) this season’s set was a palate cleanser. And rightly so: All the focus was on the superb clothes, each one a miracle of construction, workmanship, and sophisticated embellishment.

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