Wednesday 19 February 2014

Ultra Luxe by TOM FORD Fall/Winter 2014/15

For his tightly edited, elegantly reductive fall 2014 collection, Tom Ford morphed the sartorial influences of two places dear to his heart the American West (where he has a home in Santa Fe), and London, his beloved adopted home.

The collection effortlessly pairs urban life in London with a sleek interpretation of iconic clothing items from the American West. From the sequin evening dress knocking off of the "knock off" TOM FORD football jersey Jay Z wears when performing his song "TOM FORD," to the spare wool and cashmere felt evening dresses that close the show, the mood of the collection is pared down, streamlined and ultra luxe.

The London influence meant a cool sixties Mod girl with ironed hair, a smoky eye, and a pale lip, wearing the kind of easy, unfitted shift dresses that slyly reveal the body beautiful beneath, or a brace of playful chubby coats in brilliant combinations of hot pink and ginger, or tawny-and-purple sculpted fox. Of course, this being a Tom Ford runway, that humble slash-neck top with gypsy cross lacing and a slim skirt with a slight flare might easily be executed in garnet red alligator, with matching boots poised on needle heels, or in panther-spot pony in a lustrous ginger tone.

But Ford’s Texan roots and love for the American Southwest were revealed in a spirit of what the designer called “modern rodeo.” This meant that those vertiginous heeled boots might have a gentle curve to their tops, mimicking a classic cowboy boot, while the unfitted cross-lace tops had echoes of unstructured Native American shirts, and the slim-fitting top of a red velvet gown billowed into tiered skirts that gently suggested a cowgirl’s dirndl.

In an uncharacteristic and witty nod to contemporary pop culture and playing to the notion that everything is essentially source material for inspiration Ford sent out a brace of sequined football jerseys with the year of his birth and his name emblazoned on the front. To the fashion historian, these suggested an homage to the legendary American designer Geoffrey Beene’s 1967 collection that included beaded football jersey dresses.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: VOGUE
Photography by Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages

For my German-based readers, find TOM FORD in Munich:

'Marion Heinrich opened TOM FORD Store'

The 1400 Square foot, two-story franchised flaghsip store is located at Falckenbergstrasse 9 (adjacent to Maximilianstrasse facing Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten), 80539 Munich, Germany.
Phone +49-(0)89-21 02 08 87

More To Love ...

'Christopher Kane put out a truly major collection for fall in every sense, a show with range, depth, variety, practicality, commerciality, luxury, beauty, and of course, that very special injection of sick, gut-lurching, desire-provoking imagination which makes him unique.'

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