Friday 17 August 2012

GIVENCHY Fall/Winter 2012/13


The thunderous sound of galloping horses filled a glacial school gymnasium, and heralded a Givenchy collection that focused on strong tailoring that reflected the faultless precision of traditional riding clothes and toyed with the play of a masculine-feminine mix.

Enjoy GIVENCHY Fall/Winter 2012/13 fashion show at the end of this post!  

LoL, Andrea

Literal equestrian references ran the head-to-toe gamut, from the giant solid-disc earrings (intended to evoke the blinders of a carriage horse) to the riding boots, crafted with a loose leather sheath that disguised the heel. Jodhpur-shaped pants were given a slouchy modern attitude. The shapely jackets too, with their bustled panels and elaborate seaming, had a faint echo of Victorian riding costume, as well as menswear (there were vestigial tailcoat tails) and even military uniforms of that period, but these were reimagined in Riccardo Tisci’s thoroughly contemporary aesthetic. Some jackets had panels of translucent black muslin that subtly revealed the classic tailor’s infrastructure of stiffening interlining and basting stitches within. The high turn-of-the-century collars that are a defining flourish this season were handsomely present here and for the evening looks were replaced with wide ribbon chokers with flying streamers that were once prettily called suivez-moi-jeune-homme.

Meanwhile, there was a geometric Bauhaus rigor to some of the boxier-cut, deep-sleeved tailoring pieces, as well as a brace of inventive mink jackets in color blocks of black, red, and natural browns. Elsewhere, texture contrasts were provided by panels of gleaming pony skin (which is, of course, calf hide Tisci isn’t that literal) against wool and leather. The Soviet stars that were scattered subtly across Tisci’s haute couture creations for spring (in tone-on-tone sequins or three-dimensionally molded leather embroidery elements) were used again here, but this time with unapologetic scale and bling-ing razzle-dazzle; a dramatic take on the jewel-like embroidery story that has swept the international collections.

For the softer, “feminine” side of the collection there was a whiff of Gianni Versace’s nineties looks in the short lingerie-inspired dresses with traceries of lace set into butter-soft leather or slippery satin in unusual color combinations that included lilac with khaki or ice-blue with orange and violet. Fluttering satin court trains worn with evening jodhpurs were an edgy, modern option for a statement evening look.

Givenchy’s front-row lineup included such fans as the sixty-something artist Marina Abramovic, Alicia Keys, and Cassie; and Tisci, a proven model kingmaker, cast his show with a pan-generational cabinet of models, from suave grown-ups like Stella Tennant to a gaggle of thirteen new girls that Givenchy secured exclusively for the season, and who brought an intriguing freshness to his forceful show.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo Credit/Source: © VOGUE
Photography by © Monica Feudi/


'Paris Haute Couture | GIVENCHY Fall 2012 Couture'

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