Friday 17 August 2012

Paris Haute Couture | Givenchy Fall 2012 Couture

GIVENCHY Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2012/13 - For his superbly crafted capsule couture collection for Givenchy (in a disciplined palette of buff, chocolate, ebony, and scarlet), Riccardo Tisci apparently looked to the imposing sculptural drama of Hubert de Givenchy’s statement sixties evening dresses and married that to an idea of contemporary gypsy style.

I’m not quite sure which contemporary gypsies Riccardo is hanging out with, but they must certainly be grand bohemians if the extraordinary hand-detailing of these clothes is anything to go by. How about a sweeping cape in a swirling Mitteleuropa pattern of scarlet on black? The entire effect is created by fringes of the finest bugle beads that hang straight when still to reveal the design, but swish into a shimmer of abstract pattern in movement, flashing a pair of solid-jet beaded sarouel pants beneath, paired with a top of the finest black cashmere with the illusion of a pleated satin cummerbund at the low-slung waist.

Or how about a bias-cut dress of pale beige crepe with butterfly sleeves and a gentle arc of seams that reverses to a back of claw-shaped sequins that tumble down a self-colored lace panel, covered first in the lace, then the crepe like the most sophisticated scarifications? Or a dress of dirty-blonde crepe that twists into a fichu bodice of mink, sheared so fine it feels like chiffon velvet? Or a trim of scrolling rococo volutes so densely worked with bronze sequins that they become three-dimensional, like the handles on a Regence commode?

Riccardo’s couture pieces may not be designed for Everywoman, or even for everyday life, but with each collection he pushes the boundaries of what is breathtakingly possible when the greatest and most extravagant refinements of skilled handwork are applied to silhouettes and concepts that are sci-fi modern.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

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