Featherweight Layers of Mink by Giambattista Valli

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Giambattista Valli Pre-Fall 2012 

These days, the fashion cycle is more like a rapidly accelerating treadmill with a mind of its own. After presenting pre-fall in New York, Valli return to Paris where he has two weeks to finish his second haute couture collection and six weeks to wrap fall. Other desgners might lament thze workload, but valli refuses to look at it as anything other than a privilege because he knows his mood will reverberate through clothes.

"Sometimes designers say, 'Oh my God, I'm devastated by the stress,'" he says, "They needed 3,500 hours or 3,000 meters of whatever to do one dress. You  end up really scard of the piece." This is not to say that Valli is casual about his work. Rather he seems quite serious aboit this lack of seriousness. Why else go to such lengths to render fur coats in featherweight layers of mink, fox, and Persian lamb, relieving his ladies of any burden physical or metaphorical? There's also an unquestionable sense of play in the short puffers with beaded collars or done in a trompe l'oeil tweed-print nylon - just the kind of pieces one would imagine on Lee Radziwill in Gstaad. 

One just as easily could picture one of Valli's glam girls Eugenie Niarchos going about her day in lean print pants with matching, minimalist tops or wearing one of the eclectic mixed-material dresses underneath a striped fur vest, or pairing individual pieces with hand-me-downs from her mother, Victoria. "I always say I do 50 percent of the job, and the other 50 his how the women's going to interpret the clothes," Valli says. "You have to make her comfortable enough to put her personality into them."

Giambattista Valli Pre-Fall 2012

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photos: Courtesy of Giambattista Valli
Source: VOGUE 

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