ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories: "John Galliano For John Galliano"

John Galliano For John Galliano FW 2011/12

For this collection was an ode to Parisian chic, refracted through the acuity of Galliano's lens: Here a pencil skirt with a forties flip was executed in ivory latex - an homage, perhaps, to the nocturnal denizens of this arrondissement that is at once raffiné and louche. And here, a chiffon evening gown of exquisite Vionnet cut, with a motif of spiraling curlicues that turned out to be plums of cigarette smoke, coiled in purple and mauve against the ebony background.

"John Galliano has been fired by his own namesake label following his alleged racist and anti-Semitic tirades. The borad at John Galliano, 91 percent of which is owned by Christian Dior, has agreed to hand over design duties to the in-house team and let go of Galliano. Galliano was arrested in February after he was accused of making anti-Semitic remarks to a couple during an altercation at a café in Paris. He was fired from the Dior label in March just view days before the Dior-presentation at Paris Fashion Week. Recently, Dior publicated that the maison would sell John Galliano after Galliano's court-rehearsel. May 12th, 2011. Dior pretends that Chinese and Italian Investors are interested to takeover the fashion label John Galliano ..."

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Galliano wanted to suggest a Colette-era courtesan wrapping her exquisite bedsheets around her, and there was indeed no suggestion of how his dressmakers had made the airy confection stay up. Here was aPoiret coat in the same vein that seemed like a chain-stitch quilted satin eiderdown.

The Balenciaga bouclé coat and the shapely Dior-draped fichu jacket and the woolen swing coat with embroidered paisley motifs veiled inshadowy chiffon, and the mushroom puff of a taffeta skirtor a jacket scythed away in back to reveal a flash of spine, or the evening gown tufted with ostrich fronds and embroidered to sparkle like fireworks in a night sky carried with them all the knowledge that Galliano has acquired in his Parisian life working with the master craftspeople chez Givenchy and Dior, and showed how he can seize an inspiration from a scrap of the past and take it into his very own world.