Massimiliano Giornetti at Salvatore Ferragamo
is one of those designers who is lucky enough to work with all the
luxurious techniques traditional Italian craftsmanship can supply, from
leather goods to sumptuous fabric developments. He’s entered a house
that was built on conservative shoes and taken it into a ready-to-wear
proposition; a minimalist at heart who now commands shows on a large
scale. Everyone who matters in fashion was there to see what he would
come up with for fall.
The first answer was his revision
of the tweed poncho the blanketlike cover-up that’s gaining traction as next winter’s alternative to a coat. From there, he used his resources
to come up with some standout knitwear slick black jersey dresses with
knife-pleat skirts treated to subtle gilding effects. Along with the
high-heeled leather knee-boots (in brown; the coming color for fall),
those pieces are the ones which promise to be taken up by fashion
editors as the season develops.
When Giornetti did venture some risks, he restricted his experiments to
the surface of fabrics needle-punching jacquard or dipping leather
pleats in metallic paint. The men's fall/winter collection he showed for the label took a homey turn. There was a warming trend here as well, in
pieces like a black wrap coat, of which only the hem was decorated with
a white animal-spot pattern. Whether it was embroidered or painted, you
couldn't tell, but it lent a depth and richness to the coat that felt
true to this house. It was a feeling that carried through to a pair
clingy ribbed-knit dresses at the end that looked brushed with gold
leaf.
To shop this wonderful collection, please visit
trunkshow.ferragamo.com.
Discover the Salvatore Ferragamo F/W '14/15 runway show at the end of this post!
LoL, Andrea
Ferragamo's Creative Director Massimiliano Giornetti
Salvatore Ferragamo Trunkshow on
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit & Source: VOGUE
Photos: Yannis Vlamos / IndigitalImegas
Eschewing the focused theatrics of
Marc Jacobs’s memorably staged shows for the house, Nicolas Ghesquière considered another
proposition.
“I didn’t want to do a theme or a story,” he explained
backstage in a greenroom stylishly appointed with chrome seventies
furnishings
. Instead, “I tried to express an easiness,” he said, a mood
that he feels is emblematic of the way a modern woman dresses.
