Massimiliano Giornetti at Salvatore Ferragamo is one of those designers who is lucky enough to work with all the luxurious techniques traditional Italian craftsmanship can supply, from leather goods to sumptuous fabric developments. He’s entered a house that was built on conservative shoes and taken it into a ready-to-wear proposition; a minimalist at heart who now commands shows on a large scale. Everyone who matters in fashion was there to see what he would come up with for fall.
The first answer was his revision of the tweed poncho the blanketlike cover-up that’s gaining traction as next winter’s alternative to a coat. From there, he used his resources to come up with some standout knitwear slick black jersey dresses with knife-pleat skirts treated to subtle gilding effects. Along with the high-heeled leather knee-boots (in brown; the coming color for fall), those pieces are the ones which promise to be taken up by fashion editors as the season develops.
When Giornetti did venture some risks, he restricted his experiments to the surface of fabrics needle-punching jacquard or dipping leather pleats in metallic paint. The men's fall/winter collection he showed for the label took a homey turn. There was a warming trend here as well, in pieces like a black wrap coat, of which only the hem was decorated with a white animal-spot pattern. Whether it was embroidered or painted, you couldn't tell, but it lent a depth and richness to the coat that felt true to this house. It was a feeling that carried through to a pair clingy ribbed-knit dresses at the end that looked brushed with gold leaf.
To shop this wonderful collection, please visit trunkshow.ferragamo.com.
Discover the Salvatore Ferragamo F/W '14/15 runway show at the end of this post!
LoL, Andrea
Ferragamo's Creative Director Massimiliano Giornetti
Salvatore Ferragamo Trunkshow on
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit & Source: VOGUE
Photos: Yannis Vlamos / IndigitalImegas
Eschewing the focused theatrics of Marc Jacobs’s memorably staged shows for the house, Nicolas Ghesquière considered another proposition. “I didn’t want to do a theme or a story,” he explained backstage in a greenroom stylishly appointed with chrome seventies furnishings. Instead, “I tried to express an easiness,” he said, a mood that he feels is emblematic of the way a modern woman dresses.
No comments:
Post a Comment