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Thursday, 14 July 2011

Milan Fantasy | Versace Fall 2011/12

The scene was a flashback to the Versace heyday; a glamourous evening show back in the Via Gesu Versace palazzo where Gianni showed in the high eighties, complete with eighties popstars Duran Duran in the front row, with everyone agog and dressed to the mines, and a fresh Prince track pounding.

Versace Ad-Campaign Fall 2011/12

... That's true of Donatella Versace's glossy leather suits, with their pleated skirts (a clever coded meld between Versace's "gladiator" heritage, a kilt and schoolgirl) and, especially, of the way she managed evening. Yes, she did her duty to the house by offering up a couple of the expected strapless ostrich-trimmed gowns that must have a place of honor in a Versace finale. ... It sparkled, but in a coolly confident woman-friendly way: testament to how well Donatella Versace is steering her collection into the future.

Versace Ad-Campaign Fall 2011/12

Versace Fall/Winter 2011/12

Source: VOGUE

Photography by Marcio Madeira/firstView

Versace Ad-Campaign Fall 2011/12

'Fire & Ice'

Saskia de Brauw photographyed by Mert & Marcus

Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Fall 2011/12

Jean Paul Gaultier continued to ring the changes on the iconic pieces that he loves. Trench coats were reenvisioned in liquid jersey, draped like the magnificent Madame Gres dresses currently on display at the Musée Bourdelle, and his biker jackets were transformed into masterpieces of elegantly tailored sobriety.

The hypnotic instructions of a ballet mistress and a ballett master to their classes, and the demand of the demonic choreographer in Black Swan to his hapless ballerina to embody thze qualities of both the Black Swan and the White Swan, at the Opening of Jean Paul Gaultier's show, signaled the designer's intention to explore a dark side of the fairy-tale world of tutus and feathered headdresses.

The jacket of his opening number - cut like a trench over a suave pantsuit - was given an explosion of tutu ruffles to createa bustled peplum, and romantic ballet-length skirts in sturdy tweeds had the unexpected embellishment of feathers at the at the hem that evoked the headdresses of ballet's traditional swans. Gaultier used feathers with the great imagination throughout the collections - tufts of multicolored marabou simulating camouflage prints or an Icelandic sweater; a feathered cockerel embellishing the sleeve of a black evening coat; and the bands of iridescent pheasant plumes streaking a full tulle skirt - with a bodice elaborately embroidered to simulate those feathers.

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Fall 2011/12

Source: Vogue

Photography by Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway

The whole JPG-Haute Couture Fall 2011/12 collection on my Facebook-page

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'Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011'

Made in Diamonds, Onyx, Crystals, and Pearls ... - CHANEL Couture Fall 2011/12

First CHANEL Couture Fall 2011/12 inspirations ...

... And toward evening, the darkness framed some brilliant moments, worked through in Lagerfeld's contrasting long-slim versus peplum-curved silhouettes. Two of the most exceptional were in midnight blue. One, an astonishing strip of crunchy paillettes, with the sequins continuing downwards onto knee-boots, and the other a variation on the peplum suit, where plums of ostrich formed a pannier effect, fluttering below the jacket as the girl walked.

Similarly, a white silk dess, with feathers shivering from the sleeves, and the skirt, a collage of frills and rosettes carried the modern complexity combined with superb technique which is Chanel couture at its unsurpassable best.

As for jewelry? There was none, unless you count the jeweled buttons. That might seem perverse, considering the Place Vendome, the entire idea behind the show, is the center of high jewelry store on the square, opposite the Ritz, where Gabrielle Chanel herself lived for a long time. This week, private clients were viewing the new collection, based on the theme black and white. Needless to say, the pieces, made in diamonds, onx, crystal, and pearl, just so happen to look wonderful with the clothes a woman might be ordering for fall.