Column Dresses by VIONNET Paris

According to the press notes at the show, the Vionnet spring 2015 collection was inspired by curves and by dancing. That's the thing about semiotics, though: To each her own! An alternative reading of Goga Ashkenazi's latest outing for the label was vestal virgins circa 2500 A.D. attending a postapocalyptic prom. That seemed as coherent a logic as any for this rather daffy group of clothes, what with the gartered bodysuits and sheer, floor-sweeping overskirts, plissé gowns worn with backpacks, and feral leathers and capes.

The plissé and the Grecian draping were a nod to Madeleine Vionnet, of course, and she would have had no trouble identifying her handwriting in a simple column dress of draped nude and ivory silk, or in the bone white draped frock with jewelry embellishment modeled at the close of the show by Saskia de Brauw. She might even have nodded in recognition at a micro-mini plissé dress an ace look for a would-be modern Artemis. (Ashkenazi herself seemed to be vibrating on that wavelength: The song that played over the final défilé was Björk's classic "Hunter.") There were other nice pieces scattered throughout the fabrics here were choice, and it was hard not to like most of them but the button-down-plus-bubble-skirt and bodysuit-plus-anything propositions were a seriously hard sell. Ashkenazi appears to want to update the Vionnet formula, make it seem aggressively modern; the trouble with that is, Madeleine Vionnet's ideas are timeless and look modern still. Witness the appeal of the simplest, most signature Vionnet looks here. They point the way forward all the way to the year 2500.

Discover the VIONNET Spring 2015 backstage video at the end of this post - enjoy!  

LoL, Andrea 

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo Credit/Source: The House of VIONNET

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'LA PERLA Lingerie & Beachwear Summer Sale'

Spring/Summer 2015 beachwear campaign of the Italian lingerie brand LA PERLA, featuring top models Isabel Goulart, Ming XI, and Sigrid Agren. The girls strip down to the new season designs in these sexy images captured by Mert & Marcus with the creative direction of Fabian Baron. See LA PERLA's spring beauties below and click here for LA PERLA Summer Sale with 40% off & free shipping!

LoL, Andrea

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The Lighter Spin by VIONNET Cruise 2016

Spring has sprung at Vionnet: The Resort collection was presented in a showroom that had been transformed into a garden replete with ivy, lilies, and various other types of flowers. The spring-like mood trickled down to the lineup, infused with delicate colors and references galore to nature in bloom. "I wanted to bring about a new freshness and give our heritage a lighter spin," said Vionnet's owner and head designer, Goga Ashkenazi, twirling around with ebullient energy to make her point. The colors she used boasted ineffable names such as thorn apple green, bluebell blue, moonflower pink, angel's trumpet yellow, catchfly pink, and datura nude. The nature theme was translated into geometric, slightly constructivist shapes softened by the use of liquid plissés and fluid fabrics.

A picture from the Vionnet archives of a sumptuous evening dress embroidered with tulips was the reference for watercolor prints in which the motif was digitally exploded, as in a glove-soft bonded-leather raincoat. It was also used for intarsia appliqués on sleek jackets and tops. The silhouette was elongated, such as a column skirt topped with a short leather cape in pale blue or a narrow aqua macramé midi skirt paired with a sporty-chic sweatshirt in silk mesh. The house signature plissé soleil punctuated the collection. Printed circle skirts were worn with bomber jackets; asymmetric peplum leather "belts" enhancing the waistline ingeniously morphed into tops. Sporty daywear looks and masculine tuxedos in pastel hues were counterbalanced by the glamour of languid evening dresses. Draped in cascading liquid silk jersey, they were clearly aimed straight at the red carpet.

Discover the VIONNET Fall/Winter 2015/16 fashion show at the end of this post!  

LoL, Andrea 

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo Credit/Source: The House of VIONNET

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'GUCCI Cruise 2016 Presentation in New York'

For resort 2016, newly appointed creative director Alessandro Michele chose to set the stage for Gucci on foreign shores, in New York City’s art district. While his history with the Italian house goes back more than a decade (he’s worked on the design team since 2002, when Tom Ford was at the helm), it’s clear that the Roman-born designer is intent on steering the brand in a completely new direction.

 

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