Ermanno Scervino Spring/Summer 2016

The Ermanno Scervino Spring/Summer 2016 collection explores the suggestive effects of lace: matching and overlapping layers for a seductive and sensual touch. Tuxedo dustcoats in various materials: in multi-layered lace, doubled pashmina coupled with lace, raffia, lasered canvas or the new military-style organza. Jacquard prints in floral motifs with red accents on a macramè backround. Pastel nuances, impalpable muslins, "safari" style jumpsuits.

“It’s a passion play of opposites,” said an upbeat Ermanno Scervino backstage before rushing out to greet Italy’s First Lady, Agnese Landini, a friend and loyal client. The collection he presented today celebrated his signature hyper-feminine, Italian-diva style, though he tempered it with a contrasting dose of masculine and sporty elements. Fortunately for Scervino’s fans, this did not tarnish the glam factor; on the contrary, it polished the edges, giving the lineup a contemporary feel.

Craftsmanship took center stage with an elaborate display of materials, textures, and finishes. Lace was utilized in myriad ways—bonded with a double layer of delicate guipure, embroidered with macramé and jacquard feuillage, and fused with cashmere pashmina to sumptuous effect. The silhouettes were either elongated and slim or sensual and shapely; evening fabrics were worked into tailored day coats and pantsuits. Light organza gave shape to a classic tuxedo duster worn with cropped pants and flat embroidered babouches. In another clever conception, a sporty olive green jumpsuit was paired with a luxe mink jacket dyed a bright shade of bubblegum pink. Masculine shirts in crisp striped poplin were a chic counterpoint to tight duchesse satin pencil midi skirts, while shades of lipstick red served as an unexpected and striking contrast to a delicate periwinkle hue. The result was a lineup of edge and modernity, spicing up Scervino’s trademark sensual touch.

Enjoy the Ermanno Scervino S/S 2016 runway show at the end of this post!  

LoL, Andrea 

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: The House of Ermanno Scervino
Photos by Kim Weston Arnold/Indigital.com

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A ray of sunlight pierces the Parisian skies on a cloudy January 26th, and illuminates the dome of the Grand Palais. Like a reminder of spring in the middle of winter, it signals the start of Karl Lagerfeld’s Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2016 collection show. In an exaltingly bucolic set, a wooden house with closed shutters blends in with the vegetation. The door opens to reveal the first silhouettes. One by one, seeming to slow their pace to better take advantage of the moment, the models wander through this Eden.

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Victoriana-Nigthdresses by DIOR Spring/Summer 2016 RTW

There were mountains of delphiniums (400.000) shipped in to decorate the Dior tent and mountains of people clogging the Rue de Rivoli entrance, jostling for a glimpse of Rihanna. Inside, there was Raf Simons backstage, talking about keeping things simple and quiet:

"It’s a calm one, and very softaway from the overdone. I didn’t want to embellish. So I was thinking about the South of France rainbows and the simple things. And there’s a bit of Victoriana: something of that film Picnic at Hanging Rock. With a slight sexual undertone of darkness.”

Simons can lay reasonable claim to have been the one to start both the current Victoriana-nightdress trend and the intergalactic astronaut trends that are running through so many collections this season he proposed both themes in his Spring 2016 ready-to-wear show. But part of the responsibility for helming a behemoth brand like Christian Dior is filling stores with daywear for women who like feminine things rather than conceptual clothes, and this season he attended to servicing it.

His solution was to pair scallop-edged handkerchief cotton dresses, little shorts, and bodices with black tailoring. The jackets softened from the corseted New Look hourglass skimmed the body and broke into bands of micro pleats at the hem, a masculine-feminine merge suggesting the techniques that went into the trains of Victorian and Edwardian dresses. The sexual undertone? Not so much in the clothes as at the necks, which were bound with tight scarves and chokers, each carrying a single jewel and dangling a metal tag, some of which read 1947, the date of Dior’s revolutionary New Look collection. In terms of fashion, though, there was nothing very disturbing or challenging in any of this. Deliberately so: In a season where many collections have apparently neglected to remember that there might be warm weather in 2016, Dior is one place where fresh summer options will be found.

Enjoy the DIOR Spring 2016 runway show at the end of this post! LoL, Andrea 

DIOR's Creative Director Raf Simons

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: The House of DIOR

Stills by Alessandro Garofalo/Indigitalimages

Runway by Yannis Vlamos/Indigitalimages

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There were swaggering Wall Street double-breasted coats, long and loose and cut from burgundy or green wool, thrown into the mix, too. Sometimes those coats cloaked the other story going on: Simons’s development of what he started with his brilliant haute couture show this past January & July. That might mean there would be more of the Veruschka-esque jacquard body suits underneath, now patterned with Simons’s idea of a futuristic, abstracted animal print.

DIOR via Instagram by @andreajankeofficial

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