ROCHAS Fall/Winter '15/16 by Alessandro Dell'Acqua

Alfred Hitchcock would be thrilled by the birds at Rochas’s fall 2015 show the swallows, actually, so chosen as a nod to the house’s 1934 fowl-focused collection which landed today in Paris, cast in a (occasionally glitter-outlined) silhouette and what was actually a series of very Tippi Hedren-approved silhouettes, now that you mention it. But it was the 1930s that Alessandro Dell’Acqua looked to for fall 2015 (a good three decades pre Tippi’s heyday), sending out romantic ruffled sweetheart necklines neatly perched above thickly belted mid-calf-length skirts, or blousy fur tops with rounded shoulders blooming from those same nipped waists.

Photos via Instagram by @andreajankeofficial live from the show

Prim toppers were in shades of marigold and taupe and sometimes boasted fur patch pockets or tied at the neck with a bow. Open-backed woolen sheath dresses  sauntered out under shaggy fur bomber jackets, or alone, with swathes of a different jacquard fabric rippling under their belts. There was a deliberate weight to some of these looks, accented by the thickly luxe, gem-encrusted sea urchin style beading on the heels of some pumps (the others, of course, were fur) for the decidedly grounded. Then again, others like a series of transparent black Chantilly lace trapeze dresses trimmed in marabou with subtle polka-dot accents, or the looks rendered in sky blue organza, dotted with those same skyward creatures were as light as air. And as Hitchcock knew, sometimes the best drama is delivered with the subtlest touch.

 Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo Credit/Source: ROCHAS

Photos: Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages (runway)

Instagram by @andreajankeofficial (stills)

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'Paris Fashion Week & Couture 2015 Part I'

Paris Fashion Week kicked-off yesterday, and here I'd like to give you a summary (part I) of the Haute Couture shows for spring 2015 presented in January, starting with Dior, VALENTINO, ALBRECHT OLLENDIEK, Atelier Versace, ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER, Chanel, ELIE SAAB, LA PERLA Atelier, ARMANI Privé, Giambattista Valli, Maison Margiela by John Galliano. Here I'd like to start with....

ALBRECHT OLLENDIEK Couture

Couture collections by ALBRECHT OLLENDIEK have wonderful titles, such as 'The Black Sheep', 'LA FORÊT SAUVAGE' , 'Fare thee well my Highlands', or here linked to this 'extrait' out of 'La Princesse Bolchevique'. Albrecht's newest Couture 2015 presentation (always held very soon before the start of Paris Couture Week in January), presented each November at Schlosshotel Kronberg, entitled  'échappé !' featuring Eveline Hall. Enjoy these three ALBRECHT OLLENDIEK Couture-teaser, a sneak-peek of his creative work!

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ROCHAS Spring/Summer 2015

It’s always difficult when a designer takes over from a quirky, critically beloved and intensely personal predecessor; and such is the case with Alessandro Dell’Acqua, who returned to the well for his third collection at ROCHAS following up his sweetly romantic resort collection with a frothy, filmy take on mostly mid-century-modern silhouettes for spring 2015.

Instagram by @andreajankeofficial direct from the show

Instagram by @andreajankeofficial direct from the show 

There were primly collared sheer tops boasting large Rs on the breast under full, layered skirts and lace-inlay tea-length ones; there were ribbon–be-sashed flora and fauna-embroidered gossamer caftan-style dresses (truly sheer, and paired with peach-colored bloomers); there were long, sweeping skirts (occasionally prairie or peasant) and intricately beaded coats and the sporadic gold or white sequin-covered silhouette; there were frilly frocks and bobby socks and even utility-belt-style cinches across some chests. But where Dell’Acqua hit his stride was with a series of flirty camisole-style dresses, and it was here that interest seemed to peak amongst showgoers more than for the gauze and glitz of the fifties fantasy-housewife fare (though the little sporty, sheer, contrast-trimmed kicky knit tops were great).

It feels like what Dell’Acqua is truly saddled with here is moving his Rochas away from the Marco Zanini–isms that he inherited when taking the reins cutting the label away from the prim, pretty dressing that the latter made his trademark and toward the slinky, sexy silhouettes that he was famous for under his namesake label, in order to take the collection to a place where there can be no comparison to what came before. Fashion needs more than a reassurance of what’s already happened. That slip-over-lace dress was a hint of what’s there; we’re ready to see more.

Discover the ROCHAS S/S 2015 runway show at the end of this post! LoL, Andrea 

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit / Source: VOGUE

Candids by Kevin Tachman

Instagram by ANDREA JANKE @andreajankeofficial

Runway by Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages 

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'The Sense of Texture by ROCHAS Fall/Winter 2014/15'' 

Sometimes change needn’t be quite so dramatic, especially in a season where there seems to be a lot of it. For instance, take Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s first collection as creative director of Rochas. It was a fresh start simply by definition, intended to communicate the Italian designer’s vision, which he described as “dramatic, more strong, not too sweet. Sweet is in the past.”

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