Kendall Jenner in Look N° 29
With its defined waist, sensual lines and a graphic neckline framed in fur, the coat-dress worn by model Kendall Jenner in the Dior ready-to-wear Autumn/Winter 2016/2017 show was a modern revisiting of the Bar jacket, that House icon designed by Christian Dior in 1947.
There was a mirrored set reflecting infinity at the Christian Dior show, and a voice intoning “Time, time, time” on the soundtrack. What did it signify the past on the left, the endless permanence of the brand’s future on the right? Or, more pertinently, that the collection passing through is but another soon-to-be-forgotten fleeting moment in Dior’s history? As everyone knows, the task of keeping Dior warm between the exit of Raf Simons and the hiring of a new creative director has been undertaken by the brand’s studio team.
Within those parameters, studio heads Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux did quite a decent placeholder job, which skewed rather refreshingly younger and less uptight than before. There was a lot of black suiting, with slit, high-waisted pencil skirts and softer jackets worn as a young girl might, with pointy silver and black low Mary Janes. With their hair tightly coiled into buns and ears studded with safety pins and other jingle-jangles, the models walked easily and briskly, many in coats with deep flounces in the hem. There were also cocktail dresses with swathed necklines, scattered with random, vintage-y settings of colored gems.
Truth be told, after that, a meandering feeling took over the coats kept coming back, the suits and dresses kept reappearing, and there was never much sense of a finale. Still, it wouldn’t be fair to dismiss this joint effort without mentioning one surprise the Dior knits. Somebody on the DIOR team had come up with some interesting, fashion-forward shapes one with a strong black flounce running into a V and a high neckline, another in shocking orange with leg-of-mutton sleeves, and a couple of others with paisley patterns. Next season will probably be another story, once a new creative director is found, but those who’ve been holding the fort since Raf Simons quit have not disgraced the house.
For the ready-to-wear Autumn/Winter 2016/2017 collection the Dior woman is piling on, mixing and layering her jewelry to compose articulated mobiles in sync with her style. There are gilt metal multi-clip earrings, bordeaux and gray rhinestone hoops, buttons in silver and gold. There are also rings that wrap around the finger like a delicate ribbon dabbed with little barrettes and colored plexiglas, glass and rhinestones. The whole comes alive as the wearer moves. This spontaneous and creative mixing of forms, colors and materials is also to be found in the choice of bags.
A new House icon was to be discovered fully embroidered or cut in exotic leathers such as yellow lizard, teamed with a long-strap glasses case in smooth bordeaux leather or violet lizard. Another bag resembles a giant wallet with compartments. To finish off the look, the cut-out ankle boots also exhibited a subtle play of color and material, whether that be black heels with black crocodile and black laced lizard front, or brown heels with a band of black lizard and dark blue lizard lacing. For that all-important final touch, the new DiorUmbrage glasses with lenses lightly tinted an orange, green or blue leaf print peppered the looks in the show.
Enjoy the DIOR Fall/Winter 2016/17 RTW runway show 'Best OF' by DIOR at the end of this post! LoL, Andrea
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: The House of DIOR
Stills by Kevin Tachman
Backstage by Alessandro Garofalo/Indigital.tv
Runway by Yannis Vlamos/Indigital.tv
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