For his pre-fall showing, Alber Elbaz outfitted the Lanvin design studio on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré with a trio of well-worn velvet sofas, floral paintings, chunky ashtrays, a napping goldfish, and a taxidermied cat.
Enjoy the LANVIN Pre-Fall 2015 | The Making of video during this post! LoL, Andrea
His intention was to transform one of Paris’s chicest ateliers into “grandma’s house” because “comfort” in his view, “is something that we’re lacking.” It was a clever and timely response to the vast, rapid, and often alienating way that fashion is produced, discussed, and consumed in a globally minded, digitally enabled world. Elbaz wanted to remind those assembled a small clutch of editors that fashion is ultimately not about the frontiers of technology and scale; that it all boils downs to “a thread, a needle, a seamstress.”
And what have those seamstresses stitched up for the brand? Elbaz presented fifteen looks, all with a certain “lived-in” luxurious attitude: sumptuous textures and generous proportions, eclectically composed. A short sheath in rose brocade under a gleaming metallic duffle was finished with leopard-print loafers and bag. A softly nipped, curvaceous tuxedo jacket topped mega-slouchy men’s trousers in a blown-up suiting plaid. The best dress (from a house known for great ones)? A glistening floral jacquard sack: seasonless and chic with heels or flats, tights or not ... possibly your new best friend that might live in your closet.
One might be tempted to see two distinct women in the collection: a festival-minded starlet Suki Waterhouse, say who favors rosy-hued fluff and wears stockings with jeweled sneakers, and her downbeat yet elegant older counterpart who wants a red-carpet-worthy “smoking” dress that slips on easy as a T-shirt. But that would be missing Elbaz’s point: The confidence to be comfortable, to be intimate, is a question more of temperament than age. Think of the many looks of Emma Stone, who often wears Lanvin with a fearless brilliance. Grandma’s house (Lanvin turns 126 this year) has surprisingly relevant cupboards.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: The House of LANVIN
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Design of the gods: For his first season for GUCCI, Alessandro Michele created the DIONYSUS BAG Collection, which is distinguished by a striking double Tiger-head closure. This unique detail references the Greek god of wine Dionysus, who in myth is said to have transformed himself into a tiger to carry a young nymph across the river that then became known as the Tigris. The Dionysus Bag is made in a number of versions in a variety of materials – suede, python and crocodile – and, perhaps in its most distinctive form, features the GG Supreme print.
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