Saturday 7 July 2012

Paris Haute Couture | ARMANI Privé Fall/Winter 2012/13


In a season in which pants are making such a strong comeback, it made perfect sense for Giorgio Armani to remind the world what an authority he is on the subject. His couture collection was based around the image of nightfall, the colors of daybreak, sunset, and finally, the starry night skies. But it was the emphasis on trousers that first caught the eye as his models began to walk out, gracefully, on flat, pointed shoes. The cut of the pants, fluid and based in menswear without being mannish, served as a reminder of the revolution in soft tailoring for women that Armani set in motion in the eighties. 

Discover the enchantment of daylight hues – the continuous nuances of colour, the playful contrasts between light and shadow. Magical moments of everyday beauty inspire an intense and tempered collection.

This is a collection, which from daybreak borrows shades of blues, lilacs and mauves, and which announces the coming luminosity of daylight with strokes of purple, paired with black velvet: a reminder of night fading into day. Here are clean and essential lines, with soft, wide trousers that gently fall over flat shoes, as if they were awaiting a cuff. 

It’s not that this show had a retrospective feel about it just that the timing of that reintroduction is serendipitously in sync with the way a new generation happens to be feeling. Mr. Armani might not know it, but young designers are currently lionizing his early collections; this summer’s graduate portfolios have been crammed full of Armani inspirations.

That air of contemporary relevance the sense of a designer being on his home territory was threaded throughout the show, and not just because of the pants. Armani’s other claim to membership in the pantheon of greats is the position he’s carved out as a designer of eveningwear, the author of dresses which, when seen in the glare of paparazzi flashbulbs, never fail to lend their wearers self-assurance and dignity. On that level, this collection also delivered in depth. Towards the finale, he sent out graceful dresses in black velvet and midnight-blue sequin, on models whose heads were veiled in crystal-edged face-coverings a vaguely Arabian Nights counterpoint to the fifties netting seen in other Paris collections this week. It lent a poetic finishing touch to one of Armani’s most convincing couture collections yet.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: © VOGUE
Photography by Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway


'Paris Haute Couture | VALENTINO Couture Fall 2012/13'

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