Thursday, 19 April 2012

VIONNET | Store Opening in Milan


VIONNET Spring/Summer 2012

The thirties seemed like the one decade we hadn't seen so far for Spring. That changed today with Rodolfo Paglialunga's bright collection for Vionnet. "Everything in life is so hard now, I wanted a return to beauty and elegance," he explained. Those years, of course, were the house founder Madeleine Vionnet's heyday. Paglialunga also just scored a big coup when Madonna wore one of his thirties-inflected bias-cut gowns to the Venice Film Festival. Does he need another reason to reimagine the era?

Enjoy the video of VIONNET'S Store Opening in Milan at the end of this post!  

Love, Andrea

The influence came across most obviously in the evening dresses: lovely draped columns with trains in painterly floral prints, or a white goddess gown embroidered with bumblebees. The daywear had a sportier spin. Paglialunga has used mountain climber's ropes as accents on necklines and waistbands in the past. Here he looked to field sports, turning baseball jerseys into silk shift dresses with contrast sleeves. Put together with the butterflies, flowers, and stars embellishing everything, it could feel like there was just too much going on. Paglialunga had more success when he kept things simpler: a navy dress whose only sports reference was the elasticized neckline from which it was draped; a cocktail number that was essentially just two light blue squares of fabric sewn together. Madeleine would've approved.

The opening of Vionnet boutique in Milan during the Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2012/13. Situated on the ground floor of Palazzo Premoli, the store offers a seamless link to the brand's headquarters, showroom and artisan-filled atelier that are located in the upper floors of the same building.


Founded in Paris in 1912 by the legendary Madeleine Vionnet - the designer generally credited as the inventor of the bias cut - the house was famed for it's founder's then highly avant-garde Greek goddess dresses. The label closed down during the World War II before being relaunched in 2006. Paglialunga was the third designer since the VIONNET brand came out of retirement, and followed Sophia Kokosalaki and Mark Audibert.

Paglialunga received mixed reviews during his tenure, but did at least succeed in winning something of a red carpet audience for VIONNET, dressing such movie starts as Diane Kruger, Emma Watson, Natalie Portman, Hilary Swank, Marion Cotillard, Carey Mulligan, and Cameron Diaz.

"Creating ten collections with VIONNET has been for me an enriching experience both from human and professional sides", commented Paglialunga in the release. His immediate plans are unknown.

"Rodolfo Paglialunga has been able to reinterpret successfully the rebirth of VIONNET putting Madeleine Vionnet's heritage and work within a contemporary perspective. I'am very grateful to Rodolfo for the great job done with us and with the best for him", Marzotto added.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Source/Photo Credit: The House of VIONNET

1 comment:

Shagun said...

A subtle, yet stylish look by Vionnet. Fusion of prettiness with understated elegance.I like the blue, floral print pants.Lovely couture. Your blog is fabulous, dear Andrea!!!

Cheers, Shagun

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