VIONNET Fall/Winter 2011/12 Collection by Rodolfo Paglialunga
Milan/Paris, the 4th October 2011 - VIONNET Spa and Rodolfo Paglialunga have agreed by common consent to terminate their collaboration that initiated in January 2009 and relaunched successfully the House founded by Madeleine Vionnet in 1912. Rodolfo Paglialunga, after his strong and passionate time in VIONNET is now considering other personal and professional paths.
"Creating 10 collections with VIONNET has been for me an enriching experience both from human and professional sides. I would like to thank the Company in its whole for the passion and dedication daily devoted to the project." (Rodolfo Palialunga)
"Rodolfo Palialunga has been able to reinterpret successfully the rebirth of VIONNET, putting Madeleine Vionnet's heritage and work within a contemporary perspective. I'am very grateful to Rodolfo for the great job done with us and wish the best for him", reported Matteo Marzotto - Milanese luxury goods tycoon and former president of VALENTINO, has bought 2009 the historical brand and relaunched it since then.
VIONNET Spa now has appointed Barbara and Lucia Croce as Creative Directors of the House. Since 1993 Barbara and Lucia have gained strong experiences in prominent international fashion companies such as Prada, Miu Miu, GUCCI and Ralph Lauren (Barbara), and Ter et Bantine, VALENTINO and Neil Barett, including various collaborations in Japan and Turkey (Lucia).
Barbara and Lucia Croce will create next Fall 2012 pre-collection to be presented to press and buyers in January 2012.
When Palialunga arrived at VIONNET 2009, he put a modern spin on the houses codes established by Madeleine Vionnet nearly a century ago. In so doing, he made the revived label a favorite with the Hollywood crowd. Now, reputation established, he's started to inject quite a bit more of himself into the mix in the foem of print, texture, and color. The result was the loosest collection he's done here yet. Paglialunga found his starting point online, tuning the image of a black and white knot he discovered there into a swirling graphic pattern that could almost have been a floral. He used the print for a fluid long-sleeve dress with a nipped waist and a below-the-knee-skirt, as well as a quilted wrap coat with sculptural shoulders. Stripey stretch belts added a sporty pop to most of the looks. The knot also informed dresses knitted from ribbons of silk, organza, wool, and suede, all with a swingy volume. It was interesting to see some overlap between his knit grosgrain dresses and the velvet ones at Balenciaga.
As for the color, it was positively florid, but in the nicest possible way. The blue of a lace dress was electric and a wool coat patched randomy with fox fur came in lipstick red. Madame Vionnet was no maximalist but being an innovator, she might've appreciated this collection's freewheeling vibe.
Installations by VIONNET Fall/Winter 2011/12