Hyper-Luxe Vision by TOM FORD Fall/Winter 2015/16

After ogling gorgeous celebrities encrusted in sequins during the cocktails that preceded Tom Ford’s fall 2015 runway show, held, as you’ve likely heard, in Hollywood and really, there were Oscar nominees Julianne Moore and Reese Witherspoon, Jennifer Lopez, Scarlett Johansson, Amy Adams, Gwyneth Paltrow, Naomi Campbell, Amber Valletta, Sofia Vergara, Rita Ora, Miley Cyrus, Fergie, Faith Hill, the list goes on it was something of a surprise to see an unembellished black prairie-style dress with a midi skirt as the first look. But for Ford, expectations exist only to be upended. And his unmatched animal instinct for high-octane glamour surfaced soon enough. By look five, you had a raw-edged denim skirt that was half fur, and by look six, you had Joan Smalls in a dramatic, full-length fur coat that combined at least three, if not four, different skins.

This season, Ford delivered a hyper-luxe vision of the Southwest punctuated with ladylike touches. Among the fringe, denim, peasant tops and what looked like braided leather chokers were nipped waists, skinny pencil skirts, and turned-up collars. Patchwork played a major role, too. In fact, when the jean jackets with fur panels appeared, you couldn’t help but applaud Ford’s ability to read his Los Angeles audience. The same goes for what he did with evening: floor-length denim skirts with colorful patchwork velvet. All of it could have walked straight off the runway.

Lest one interpret this lack of sparkly adornment as a sign that Ford finally has mined clean the earth’s paillette reserve, out walked Smalls again, this time wearing a burnt orange sequin number with dramatic cutouts near the shoulders. Any one of the bold-faced beauties in attendance would be wise to choose it on Oscar today.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: TOM FORD

Photos: Denise Crew (stills), Alessandro Garafalo/Indigitalimages (runway)

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'TOM FORD Spring/Summer 2015'

London Fashion Week kicked off last Friday and yesterday-eve Tom Ford presented his Spring/Summer 2015 collection at Lindlay Hall with an amazing scenery (see my Instagram below).

Ford likes kink. He’s into tousle-haired, smoky-eyed rock chicks. The seventies are his stomping ground. The collection Tom Ford showed for spring riffed knowingly on all those points he covered so successfully at GUCCI in the high nineties. Now that young designers who were babies in those years are quoting those times, he’s circled back to reclaim the territory. Mostly in black, with flares and giant seventies glam-rock platform clogs, to boot.

Via Instagram by @andreajankeofficial 

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Luxe Futurism by Carolina Herrera Fall/Winter 2015/16

Glistening towers of glass shards dotted Carolina Herrera’s runway, suggesting falling water frozen in the glacial Manhattan chill. The decor was a signal to the theme that coursed through the collection like a babbling brook. “It’s all about water,” Mrs. Herrera explained during a preview. “Everything is connected to it.” And indeed, everything was somehow related to that element, from the waves suggested by the panels of pale double-face wool (and even the asymmetric flip of a playful little flounced skirt), to prints of raindrops or crashing sea swell, to flounces of seafoam gazar that made the wearer look like a goddess rising from the sea; to luminous “wet look” matelassé fabrics in moonbeam colors, to the pretty frosting on her models’ eyelashes.

The embroideries continued the theme as literal as a bevy of swans scudding across the water, or as abstract as the amazing tremblant droplets of reflective silver and black that shimmied around a sheath with the print of a stormy sea, or the frivolous little dance dress with a plunging neckline. A photograph on the Herrera mood board of a brace of battling black grouse in a snowy landscape, with their characteristic bright red wattles, inspired her to add a touch of scarlet to many of the looks. It might be a waving inset of red wool on soft gray, or an undulating panel of shiny alligator on a fur stole. En masse and on the runway there was an almost hallucinatory quality to Mrs. Herrera’s watery brand of luxe futurism. But the collection was firmly grounded with stylish flat shoes and boots that continued the layered, wave effect of many of the clothes. “Nothing is related to the past!” she exclaimed, decrying the current seventies revival trend. “Let’s not have any ‘era.’ Let’s go to the future!”

Enjoy the Carolina Herrera Fall/Winter 2015/16 runway show at the end of this post!

LoL, Andrea

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: The House of Herrera

Photos: Mimi Ritzen Crawfor (backstage) / Stefano Masse/Indigitalimages (runway)

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'NYFW | Carolina Herrera Spring/Summer 2015'

Carolina Herrera promised a “modern garden” setting for her spring collection, “but it won’t be topiary!” she said, laughing. Instead, her models navigated a stage that was planted with towering conical green sculptures suggesting a formal planting of cypress trees a metaphor, perhaps, for a collection that was all about modern structure. “It’s an uncomplicated collection,” said Mrs. Herrera, “very simple lines with important details. It’s very much for now.”

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