Showing posts with label Christopher Bailey. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Christopher Bailey. Show all posts

Monday, 21 September 2015

Patchwork, Pattern, Prints by Burberry Prorsum F/W 2015/16


London Fashion Week is running and just before the upcoming Spring/Summer 2016 Burberry Prorsum fashion show today at 1:00 PM (follow my live-stream via Instagram by @AndreaJankeOfficial). I'd like to present you the review of Burberry's Fall/Winter 2015/16 collection, Christopher Bailey was musing on the Burberry trench's status as an heirloom piece, passed down from generation to generation. The notion of posterity seems like something that would come more easily to a parent than a swingle, but it also dovetailed with Bailey's reflectiveness of late. As much as he is enthralled by the pace and change of the wired world, he's happy to slow the merry-go-round. So he's making a conscious effort to create new heirloom pieces.







The collection was titled Patchwork, Pattern and Prints. There was an acute awareness of the hand in the patchwork on a poncho or suede boots, in the whipstitched patches or crocheted inserts on coats, and in the quilting that was inspired by a technique named for Durham, near Bailey's birthplace in East Yorkshire. The mirror-embroideries from the men's collection reappeared in a bodice attached to a fringed skirt or all over a floaty chiffon dress. Inevitably, they brought to mind the trail that hippies followed to India in the '60s. But so did high-waisted, mid-calf smocks in floral patchwork and all the luxuriant fringing (more pappardelle than angel hair). And maybe the echo was even a little bit phoenix-rising Joni Mitchell and her ladies of the canyon. The chanteuse of the day was actually Clare Maguire, once again singing "House of the Rising Sun," adding "My Sweet Lord" to the mix this time round. That kick-started the happy-clappies among the front row's Kate, Cara, Jourdan, Naomi, and Mario.

Enjoy the Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter 2015/16 runway show at the end of this post!

LoL, Andrea






























Burberry's Creative Director Christopher Bailey





Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories

Photo Credit/Source: The House of Burberry Prorsum
Photos by Alessandro Garofalo / Indigitalimages


More To Love ...

The Frick Collection has never opened its doors for a fashion show. Over the years, many designers have asked, but the answer was always no. This season Carolina Herrera heard yes. The skylit atrium is a transporting place; its Beaux Arts grandeur might have tempted Herrera to look back in time for inspiration, but she’s a resolutely modern-minded designer.






Tuesday, 24 February 2015

Victoriana Florals by Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter 2015/16


In Viv Albertine’s recent and very readable memoir, Clothes, Clothes, Clothes. Music, Music, Music. Boys, Boys, Boys. yes, seriously, that’s the title, so good she named it thrice the former guitarist in the 1970s all-girl London punk band the Slits recalls her teenage years, when she was bedecked in a purple maxi dress bought from Kensington Market and listening to Marc Bolan, soaking up that patchouli-scented moment of hippie abandon to Eastern mysticism. Flash forward to 2015 and to Burberry Prorsum, and we’re sitting listening, pre-show, to Marc Bolan and, less than a mile from where Kensington Market once stood, going to watch a show full of Christopher Baileys imaginings of that era: lightly quilted floral and paisley tiered dresses, cabans, and ponchos; trench coats in great patchwork prints or elongated and cut from claret wool; and looooong suede camouflage patched boots. All of this delivered in the wonderfully autumnal color palette indigo, teal, ochre, a deep and vibrant red that Bailey is so good at. (Incidentally, you may have already seen those boots on #caradelevingne, who sat front row along with the likes of four-time Grammy winner Sam Smith, Kate Moss, Jourdan Dunn, and Naomi Campbell.)







The bohemian if you have been willfully ignoring the bigger narratives of fashion lately is back, and how. Somehow it feels like Bailey’s Burberry Prorsum has always owned it more than most. Perhaps it’s because that idealized and romanticized character, all burgundy velvet and Victoriana florals, belongs to the London of the sixties and seventies that Bailey has constantly evoked in his collections. Or perhaps it’s because he has successfully linked his Burberry to the world of rock. This time round, he had British vocalist Clare Maguire sing “Will You Love Me Tomorrow” (the Tony-nominated Carole King musical Beautiful opens today in London) to George Harrison’s “My Sweet Lord.” And in its way, the collection matched that musical progression, from clean-line short graphic sixties dresses and coats to the closing looks which might be a suede cape swishing with tiers of fringe, or light-reflecting mirror embroidered dresses the point when Harrison and the show alike were all aboard the Marrakech Express.

Discover the Burberry Prorsum F/W 2015/16 runway show at the end of this post!  

LoL, Andrea

















































Burberry's creative director Christopher Bailey





Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories 

Photo Credit/Source: Burberry Prorsum
Photos: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages


More To Love ... 

'Hyper-Luxe Vision by TOM FORD Fall/Winter 2015/16'

Lest one interpret this lack of sparkly adornment as a sign that Ford finally has mined clean the earth’s paillette reserve, out walked Joan Smalls again, this time wearing a burnt orange sequin number with dramatic cutouts near the shoulders.


Picture via Instagram @andreajankeofficial






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