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BALMAIN Fall Winter 2012/13 - Olivier Rousteing, the former backroom boy at Balmain, have stepped out of the sidelines to bring back that inimitable, long-dormant spirit of hot French chic. It was 26-year-old Rousteing’s second turn at Balmain after his Spring/Summer 2012 debut, and his chance to confirm the promise he showed with his first collection at the helm last season. He pulled it off, with honors, in a show that managed to better all the maximalist decoration the house is known for and in a way that confidently added judgments and proportions of his own. The jacket, the sexily cut pant, and the body-conscious dress were all there, present and correct.
Inspired both by a trip to New York (his first!) where Rousteing marveled at a Fabergé egg, a gift from Richard Burton to Elizabeth Taylor, on exhibit at Christie’s and a finger-on-the-pulse feeling about new, outsize shapes and the balance of coverage versus flesh, he turned the collection into something classily directional. The litmus test, though? The vision on this runway of a fresh, French beauty who looks as if she’s just raked her fingers through her hair and gone out, wearing something majorly “fashion,” as if it’s nothing.
But here’s the shift: Although the Balmain girl appears as if she could rule any banquette at a club, she doesn’t actually live there. The rich, crosshatched pearl-and-satin embroidery Rousteing used wasn’t purely for paparazzi: He also proved that a crystal-decked velvet pant could be worn in that offhand way, even, conceivably for day, with something as “down” as a beige shetland sweater. Karlie Kloss—damn.
BALMAIN Fall Winter 2012/13 - Olivier Rousteing, the former backroom boy at Balmain, have stepped out of the sidelines to bring back that inimitable, long-dormant spirit of hot French chic. It was 26-year-old Rousteing’s second turn at Balmain after his Spring/Summer 2012 debut, and his chance to confirm the promise he showed with his first collection at the helm last season. He pulled it off, with honors, in a show that managed to better all the maximalist decoration the house is known for and in a way that confidently added judgments and proportions of his own. The jacket, the sexily cut pant, and the body-conscious dress were all there, present and correct.
Inspired both by a trip to New York (his first!) where Rousteing marveled at a Fabergé egg, a gift from Richard Burton to Elizabeth Taylor, on exhibit at Christie’s and a finger-on-the-pulse feeling about new, outsize shapes and the balance of coverage versus flesh, he turned the collection into something classily directional. The litmus test, though? The vision on this runway of a fresh, French beauty who looks as if she’s just raked her fingers through her hair and gone out, wearing something majorly “fashion,” as if it’s nothing.
But here’s the shift: Although the Balmain girl appears as if she could rule any banquette at a club, she doesn’t actually live there. The rich, crosshatched pearl-and-satin embroidery Rousteing used wasn’t purely for paparazzi: He also proved that a crystal-decked velvet pant could be worn in that offhand way, even, conceivably for day, with something as “down” as a beige shetland sweater. Karlie Kloss—damn.
" ... Karlie Kloss strutted out in an outfit that made the women in Olivier Rousteing's crowd sit up and take notice. "That's how I'd like to look tonight," they were thinking about an off-white crewneck sweater tucked into a pair of low-slung velvet pants embroidered Fabergé egg-style in thousands of pearls and crystals. Couture, but effortless." Nicole Phelps
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: © VOGUE
Photography by © Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com
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