Thursday, 14 February 2013

Ultra-Feminity by Marchesa Fall 2013


There’s perhaps no greater temptation than that which you can’t have. And that’s exactly how Marchesa’s fall collection was born. “George called me from L.A. saying, ‘I’ve found these vintage toreador trousers. They’re fabulous,’” recalls Keren Craig, referring to her partner Georgina Chapman. “They were the tiniest trousers I’d ever seen,” continues Chapman, due with her second child in eight weeks. “There’s nothing like something you can’t get into when you’re pregnant.”

So both the pants and their elaborate embroidery wove their way into the designers’ work this season. Of course through Chapman and Craig’s ultra-feminine and gilded lens, that inspirational find became, one imagines, the black satin bustier top with an exaggerated and dramatic peplum worn with matching cropped pants with gold, floral threadwork down the sides one of several pants-for-night looks. The women then took the equestrian motif a few steps further by echoing the buttoned-up nature of a riding costume with high-collared gauze shirts with billowing sleeves worn under a strapless dress or blousing out over a corset. “You’re so upright in a saddle,” Chapman noted. “It’s all about posture.” Indeed, it would be a physical feat to slouch in a Marchesa dress, so intricate is the scaffold of their interiors. Not that you’re able to tell in every look. Pieces like the wonderful tulle frocks with floral embroidery one black and off-the-shoulder with a body-hugging silhouette; another one-shouldered and floor-length dress with tiers of ruffles carried an appealing softness.

But more than just riff on a theme, this collection signaled how Chapman and Craig are continuing to evolve their business. What began as a label best known for frothy Fantasyland looks has become something a bit more, well, realistic. Really. And this is a good thing. The dresses this season felt more reined in; they exhibited a stronger sense of tailoring and their proportions are more in line with the parameters of life off the red carpet (i.e., they fit through a doorway). Sure, major black tie dresses might not really apply to everyday life, but consider these two things. One, what’s the matter with a little escapism; and two, if what’s been on the runways these last few days is any indication, there will be plenty of effortless clothes in stores very soon.


Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories  

Photo Credit/Source: © VOGUE
Runway: Photography by © Stefano Masse / InDigitalteam / GoRunway
Details: Photography by  © Gianni Pucci / InDigitalteam / GoRunway


Shagun said...

Very creative & rich..the elaborate embroidery is ornamental. My fave is the strapless, crimson red, silk gown with gold emroidery!!

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