Thursday, 7 July 2011

Roses, cherry blossoms, and chrysanthemums



Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2011/12

Giorgio Armani is clearly looking East. After a Resort collection that drew on imperial China, the Fall haute couture collection he showed today was an homage to Japan. While it's true that China represents and unprecedented business opportunity - meaning it's smart to market to it - Armani's connection to Japan is a deeper and more emotional on.






 ... Japanese visual icons - ranging from parasols to cherry blossoms - were predictably transmuted in prints, and, equally predictably, there were obilike belts and origamilike folds. But it felt like Armani had reflected on new Japan as much as old traditions, because there was a hint of Rei Kawakubo's original radicalism in the man-tailored pants, in the layered, elongated Edwardian line in odd details like the double cuff on a jacket sleeve, and especially in all the asymmetry.






















... Witness a one-armed jacket, the single floral printed pannier that hung off a black bolero, or the diagonal slash that bisected a velvet dress to reveal a printed interior. And, seeing we're on the subject of the new, thze collections's major futuristic flourish - the stiffened bodices that stood up like shields over the torso - could potentially also be laid at Japan's door.





Giorgio Armani Privé Fall 2011/12 

Source: VOGUE 
Photography: Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway

Enjoy my post hereinafter 'Armani Privé Couture Fall 2011/12' 
with wonderful Backstage impressions! 

Wednesday, 6 July 2011

Armani Privé Couture Fall 2011/12



'Hommage au Japon'

Minutes before the Armani Privé show, hairdressers were teetering on chairs fixing sculptural origami swirls and multicolored ikebana flower arrangements onto the heads of models - making the already long-stemmed girls something like seven-and-a-half-feet tall, from their black lacquered heels to their Philip Treacy headdresses.




Giorgio Armani's Hommage au Japon collection was about to take to the runway, a fall couture essay dedicated to a country and culture he first drew on in 1991, and to which he feels a profound connection. "Japan has been a great fountain of inspiration to me - the designs, the colors, and the shape."














The fall collection is part of Mr. Armani's response to the terrible events which strucks Japan this year. Earlier in the day, he'd ade a donation to a UNESCO scholarship fund for Japanese children and students who have been affected by the disaster.

The East-West mix was filtered through familiar Armani templates. His rigorous pantsuits and strapless dresses all came with variations on patent-leather bustiers, obi-belts, and wrap-over closures, with prints and embroideries of roses, cherry blossoms, and chrysanthemums as decoration. The linearity of silhouette worked well, as did Armani's on-trend choice of peach and apricot shades to work against black and gray. The all-over print pantsuits, a point of style which has been surfacing in the past few weeks in resort. Even Italy's arch-minimalist can have his maximalist moments, it seems.






Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2011/12
Sources: VOGUE France, US

Stay-tuned for more Armani Privé Couture styles ....

Tuesday, 5 July 2011

Salvatore Ferragamo Resort 2012




In between Parisian Haute Couture news I feel the desire to post this fabulous collection - Salvatore Ferragamo Resort 2012 ...


"Financial strategies aside, this is a season that really is all about the clothes, and ergo, the bottom line. "A beautiful, relaxed idea of movie-star elegance," Giornetti said backstage, clad in a natty navy double-breasted jacket that looked like an extremely sober (and Milanese) notion of blazer.







Elsewhere, Giornetti concentrated on a somewhat easier idea of elegance, with fluid silk flared pants, or sporty evening dresses that were cut away at the shoulders, turned narrow at the waist, then billowed like a sail all the way to terra firma. Just be sort of look Charlene Wittstock could wear at night just married Prince Albert de Monaco and is in need of something to take the helm of the principality. Let's face it: She has the body for these dresses, and in all likelihood, the boat, too.















"I wanted to take the idea of nautical, which is such a typical theme resort, and glamorize it", says Giornetti. Well, that he did. Giornetti gilded everything from marine-striped sweaters to the frond-like fringing that swished on jackets and dresses which, on the runway, undulated aplently - imagine how they'd move if the yacht hit rough Waters."












Salvatore Ferragamo Resort 2012

Source: VOGUE
Photography: Courtesy of Salvatore Ferragamo


Editorial by ANDREA JANKE for



'When The Shoe Fits - Salvatore Ferragamo'

























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