The 2012 CFDA Award Winners
WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen for The Row
The Row - Impressions about their latest collections
The Row Pre-Fall 2012 - After all, let’s consider pajama dressing, beaded flapper dresses,
discreet Manolo Blahnik kitten heels . . . . The track record of these
two demonstrates an uncanny ability to divine what might be
fun/cool/interesting/desirable to wear at a given moment, and then watch
while said look/idea/trend slowly wends its way into women’s wardrobes.
Other ideas that were at The Row pre-fall and which are likely to
appear in closets soon: turtleneck sweaters (theirs are in leather),
velvet (love the skinny pantsuit in a gorgeous shade of brick red, worn
with a patchwork fox stole) and a groovily casual way with evening (a
scoop-necked white tee with metal-embroidered midnight-blue velvet
pants).
As of now, there aren’t that many other designers or
brands,Phoebe Philo at Céline immediately springs to mind, of course who
so easily and intimately grasp how women want to dress in all of their
subtleties and nuances. The Olsens share the same enviable understanding
of what fashion can be when it’s at its best, which is in essence this:
Treat the incredibly luxurious with a sense of playfulness, and elevate
the everyday with a deadly seriousness. Out of this comes really great
clothes, and more recently, brilliant accessories (the newest: a
crocodile bucket bag). And if you’re culottes-clad later this year . . .
you’ll know who was there first.
The Row Fall/Winter 2012/13 - It’s strange to think that designers as young as Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen
might be the next successors to a great American tradition of
super-luxe fashion, the culture of classy reductionism handed down from
the likes of Bill Blass, Calvin Klein, and Michael Kors. That, though,
is the way it was beginning to look as they showed their fall collection
at the Bemelmans Bar at the Carlyle hotel, with a tinkling piano and
tables set for breakfast. They had been thinking about the civilized
polish of the way wealthy Americans dressed after the war. Poring over
1940s photographs of Nancy “Slim” Keith, they were electrified by her
unerringly offhand way of wearing clean, precise couture pieces, almost
as if they were casual day wear and often with Roman sandals.
The
crisscross, ribbon-laced sandals (in a winter collection!) were the
only remaining homage to the heiress in the presentation a chic
surprise, certainly, to pair with pants and coats. (And not that
improbable a look for cool-girl adoption, considering how many are
running around the shows with bare legs and summer dresses in freezing
New York). But really there was nothing at all about the show that
overtly referenced the past. Once they had taken to slicing off the
extraneous parts of a coat lapels, pocket flaps, buttons elongating
pencil skirts, and thinking about how to rephrase a peacoat and pants
(in navy chenille, woven with Lurex - amazing), it clearly became an
exercise in modernizing classics yet not in a cold or overly solemn way.
There’s a quirkiness in what they do, that causes the viewer to look
twice at what’s going on-like the way they zip a zone of mink into the
front of a garment, which might have started off on the drawing board as
a motorbike jacket, or how they mix two shades of mink in a coat which
is cut into a chevron pattern at the top, and into vertical stripes
below.
Yet the skills demonstrated in these pieces are serious
enough. The Olsens know how to cut a complex thing and make it look
simple: An ecru all-in-one had an almost monastic presence about it; a
tunic top, gathered in front, had a ballooned back, creating a superbly
elegant silhouette in profile. Without pretension, these girls are
beginning to scale some impressive heights. Ultimately, their quiet,
considered, and impeccably finished clothes and accessories speak to the
principles of ease, modernism, and quality, that used to lie at the
heart of American design. It’s really refreshing to see two designers of
their generation wanting to do that.
More 2012 CFDA Award Winners
MENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Billy Reid
ACCESSORY DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Reed Krakoff
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR WOMENSWEAR
Joseph Altuzarra
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR MENSWEAR
Phillip Lim
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR ACCESSORY DESIGN
Tabitha Simmons
GEOFFREY BEENE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD
Tommy Hilfiger
INTERNATIONAL AWARD
Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons
MEDIA AWARD
Scott Schuman and Garance Doré
FOUNDERS AWARD
Andrew Rosen
FASHION ICON AWARD
Johnny Depp
CONGRATULATIONS!!!
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: CFDA, The Row
Sources: VOGUE, CFDA, Style.com
